Index
These are the items that are different between the two cars. Obvious things: Pedals, transmission, bellhousing, flywheel, add a pilot bearing to crankshaft, driveshaft, shifter, speedo cable, etc.
Not so obvious: Transmission cross member location is different (never considered that one - the 4spd. tran mount was 2 or 3 inches farther forward. Easy fix though - make a custom cross member)You also have to cut the tunnel out to make room for the shifter to fit. Easy to do as the "area" is already pre-lined or punched, just cut along the outline.
Swapped over the plug for the reverse lights and removed the safety cutout for the ignition And voila, 4 speed in car.
To contact the owner of this information E-mail Phil Schneider
To make the swap you need the following itmes:
Remove the 6 pole reluctor from the 2800 distributor.
Install the 2300 4 pole reluctor. The inside diameter of the 2300 reluctor is a little too small, so either open it up or shave the distributor shaft slightly until it fits.
Check the advance curve to make sure it is suitable for you engine. The standard 2800 advances are known to be acceptable on high RPM racing engines, but they have not been tested on a street engine.
Install the distributor in the 2000 block. It will slide right in, but it will sit higher than the original distributor. this will not cause any problems with a stock intake manifold, but there might be an interference problem if the engine is fitted with dual sidedraft carburetors. If your engine is so equipped, beware !
Mount the ignition module in a convenient location. Wire the electronic ignition module to the distributor and the rest of the electrical system. Use the 1976/77 Capri II 2.8 wiring diagram as a guide. Part of the low voltage side of the system uses a "resistance wire", which is part of the wiring harness; your Capri 2000 will already have a resistance wire for the standard ignition, and it will work just fine with the electronic ignition.
Install the 2300 distributor cap and a set of high quality spark plug wires.
Set the iginition timing as you would normally.
That's it! Feel free to contact Vince by E-Mail if you have any further questions.
THESE FLEX FANS MAY CAUSE SERIOUS PROPERTY DAMAGE AND PERSONAL INJURY WHEN MISAPPLIED OR OTHERWISE MISUSEDContact Schwitzer US at 1-800-644-1403.
To contact the owner of this information E-Mail D. Wells
To contact the
owner of this information E-mail
C. Blome
To contact the owner of this information E-Mail D. Wells
To contact the owner of this information
E-Mail D. Wells
If you want to change the rear end at the same time, the Mustang II was available with an 8" posi of the correct width and wheel bolt pattern. All the bracketry will have to be moved from the old rear end to the new one, but it's nothing major to someone with a torch.
The 302 is narrower and not as tall as the V6, thought the timing cover and water pump make it longer. It's not enough heavier than the V6 to affect handling to any great degree.
To contact the owner of this information E-Mail Dave Williams
There are several ways to accomplish the swap. If you have a 1972-74 Capri and don't mind retaining the 90 degree adaptor, then you can bolt the 40DFAV directly to the adaptor. The throttle linkage will require some modification; a Capri II throttle cable is often helpful, since it is a bit longer than the Capri I cable. The air cleaner must also be changed or modified: the top of the 40 DFAV is larger than the 32/36DFAV, and the bolt pattern is also different. You also may have to fabricate a base gasket.
Since the 40 DFAV's throttles open simultaneously, it is also possible to eliminate the 90 degree adaptor entirely. This eliminates the annoying "fuel starvation in hard right turns" phenomenon. The best way to do this is to machine both the intake manifold and the plate with the various vacuum fittings clear the 40 DFAV's throttle valves. The carburetor can then be bolted directly to the manifold. The plate goes in between, of course; otherwise you will not be able to hook up the various vacuum hoses! The throttle linkage will of course be completely different, but it is relatively easy to make a suitable linkage with a Capri II throttle cable, a Capri II throttle cable mounting bracket, a spacer, and a few springs. I enlarged the hole at the end of the cable so it would fit the ball on the 40 DFAV's throttle lever, anchored the cable to the cable to the intake manifold with the bracket (I used a spacer to get the bracket to the proper height), added a throttle return spring, and it worked!
If you have a 1976-77 Capri II, things are a little messier. The Weber 40 DFAV will not bolt directly to the '76-77 manifold. You can either fabricate an adaptor, or if you're ambitious you can do what I did: Replace the intake manifold and heads with those from a 1974 Capri. You CANNOT use the 1974 intake with the Capri II heads; the later heads have EGR passages, and the '74 intake does not have the corresponding passages. If you use this approach, then the throttle linkage fabrication is the same as described above for the 72-74 Capri. The stock air cleaner can be used if you fabricate an adaptor plate; otherwise an aftermarket air cleaner can be used.
I used a Weber 40 DFAV-1L on a 1976 Capri II 2800 with '74 intake and heads, and a set of tuned headers. I used the following calibration, which was provided by the Weber distributor:
Main Venturis, 28mmI found it advantageous to make some minor changes to the carb. I turned the throttle lever around so it would align more easily with the throttle linkage, and I also substituted the choke housing from a 1973 Capri 2600 for the standard choke housing (the stock '76 air cleaner interfered with one of the choke hoses when the original choke housing was used). I believe there is also an electric choke version of the 40 DFAV available, which would eliminate any possibility of choke hose interference.
Aux. Venturis, 4.5mm
Idle jet, .60
Main jet, 1.80
Air corrector, 1.85
Emulsion tube, F2
Needle Seat, 2.50
Accelerator pump nozzle, 5
I'm not sure about the idle air bleed size, but the opening is a
little bigger than 1/16".
There are also very small holes (perhaps 0.040"/1mm) drilled in
the throttle plates.
A final hint: After the conversion is complete, take your car to your friendly neighborhood distributor guru and have the distributor advance curves set up properly. Trust me, this makes a BIG difference! I have heard that the Weber 40 DFAV can also be used on 2000 SOHC Capris.
I have also used the Weber 38 DGAS on a 2600 V6. This also worked well. 38 DGAS has smaller main venturis than 40 DFAV, so it is better suited to the 2600 and less heavily modified 2800. The conversion procedure is very similar to the one for 40 DFAV. One advantage of 38 DGAS is that its air cleaner mounting pattern matches Weber 32/36 DGAV, so you can use readily available K&N air cleaners for 32/36 DGAV. These air cleaners are available from most Formula Ford race parts suppliers.
I have also heard that the Weber 38DGAS works very well on 2000 SOHC and 2300 "Lima" SOHC Capris. I would appreciate e-mail from anyone with information on these conversions.
To contact the owner of this information E-Mail L. Wells
To contact the owner of this information E-Mail Dave Williams
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last updated: 13 March 2010
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