Tips for the Drive Train & Mechanics

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Alternator Upgrade

In my 1973 2.6 Liter, I replaced the alternator with a Volkswagen "Stater & Rotor" Part number 0120489210. This gives you 55 amps as opposed to the 35 amps (standard specifications). The part fits in easily and is inexpensive. Jeff Lantz


An ammeter should be wired up in series so that the current in the circuit passes through it. This is why your accessory ammeter works perfectly. The ammeter in the six pod dash isn't actually an ammeter at all, more a voltage difference meter. The yellow wire from the ammeter should be connected to battery positive and the red wire should go to the thick red wire on the ignition switch. The needle deflection obviously measures the slight voltage difference between the battery and the ignition switch. Ian Coulson Aff.I.M.I. Tech Adviser

Automatic to Manual Transmission Conversion

You can in a few days, swap out the automatic Ford C3 trans. and replace it with the Type F 4 speed manual. The job was simple enough.

These are the items that are different between the two cars. Obvious things: Pedals, transmission, bellhousing, flywheel, add a pilot bearing to crankshaft, driveshaft, shifter, speedo cable, etc.

Not so obvious: Transmission cross member location is different (never considered that one - the 4spd. tran mount was 2 or 3 inches farther forward. Easy fix though - make a custom cross member)You also have to cut the tunnel out to make room for the shifter to fit. Easy to do as the "area" is already pre-lined or punched, just cut along the outline.

Swapped over the plug for the reverse lights and removed the safety cutout for the ignition And voila, 4 speed in car.

To contact the owner of this information E-mail Phil Schneider


One the purchase of a new (pre-owned) Capri, it is always good insurance to replace the cam-belt. One can never be too sure, or too careful. This usually involves the removal of the cam-belt cover, radiator, fan and then getting the timing right afterwards. Alternatively, remove only the cam-belt cover, and cut the cam-belt length ways, so that a thin strip remains on the cogs/tensioner etc. Then all that remains is to slide the new belt on. No need to attempt to get the timing right, it already is, and no need to take apart the front of the car engine bay! Sometimes the new belt may need a little greasing to get it on, and I have always found that either washing up liquid (Squeezy) or WD40 helps no end, as they both wear was to bathe the new belt in hot water to make it more supple, but I have never tried that particular method. Now I can change a cam belt in about 20 minutes, as opposed to the previous 3 hours + added frustration!! E-Mail K. Sharman

Electronic Ignition Modification for any 2000 SOHC

An electronic ignition is a useful modidication for any Capri 2000 SOHC. Unfortunatedly the later Ford 2300 Lima SOHC engine's electronic ignition won't work on the 2000; the distributor won't fit the earlier enigine. Luckily, there is an electronic alternative: A 2800 V6 electronic ignition can be modified to work on a 2000!

To make the swap you need the following itmes:

  1. A distributor from a 2800 V6 with electronic ignition.
  2. An electronic ignition module for a 2800 V6. the 1977 and later high engery type is best.
  3. The wiring harness that connects the distributor to the ignition module.
  4. A reluctor for a 2300 electronic ignition distributor.
  5. A cap for an early 1980's 2300 with electronic ignition.
  6. Wiring diagrams for both your Capri 2000 and the 1976/77 Capri II 2.8 will also be extremely helpful.
The procedure:

Remove the 6 pole reluctor from the 2800 distributor.

Install the 2300 4 pole reluctor. The inside diameter of the 2300 reluctor is a little too small, so either open it up or shave the distributor shaft slightly until it fits.

Check the advance curve to make sure it is suitable for you engine. The standard 2800 advances are known to be acceptable on high RPM racing engines, but they have not been tested on a street engine.

Install the distributor in the 2000 block. It will slide right in, but it will sit higher than the original distributor. this will not cause any problems with a stock intake manifold, but there might be an interference problem if the engine is fitted with dual sidedraft carburetors. If your engine is so equipped, beware !

Mount the ignition module in a convenient location. Wire the electronic ignition module to the distributor and the rest of the electrical system. Use the 1976/77 Capri II 2.8 wiring diagram as a guide. Part of the low voltage side of the system uses a "resistance wire", which is part of the wiring harness; your Capri 2000 will already have a resistance wire for the standard ignition, and it will work just fine with the electronic ignition.

Install the 2300 distributor cap and a set of high quality spark plug wires.

Set the iginition timing as you would normally.

That's it! Feel free to contact Vince by E-Mail if you have any further questions.

Electronic Ignition Modification for any 2600/2800 V-6

Click here for Larry & David Wells' recipe for V-6 Electronic ignition conversion, with wiring diagrams and everything!


If you are using a Flex Fan on your Capri, the Schwitzer US Inc. company has issued a recall for both 7 and 5 blade models. These fans were manufactured in the '70s and may bear the name Flex-a-lite. There is the standard warning:
Contact Schwitzer US at 1-800-644-1403.

Parking Brake

Parking brake cables are tough to find these days. Here is a recipe that works. Get a VW Beetle clutch cable. One end of it looks like one end of the Capri parking brake cable. The part that goes back by the rear axle. The VW fitting is slightly larger, so you have to drill the hole out a bit. I did it with sandpaper. Anyhow, cut the other end of the VW cable off, and make a loop on the end of the cable (most auto parts stores carry fitting to make splices in cables) and hook it onto the hook on the end of the parking brake handle. The trick, of course is getting it to be the right length, but once installed, you an adjust it by changing the location of the splice and loop. I have this on both my Capris, and it does work.

To contact the owner of this information E-Mail D. Wells

Stoplight Switch

The Capri's brake lights are triggered by a small plunger switch with a cheap plastic housing, which is prone to break if you get careless bashing about under the instrument panel (as I did on my '72). Replacements are no longer listed, but you can fit the equivalent switch for a '74-85 BMW (also listed for some Saabs and Peugeots). It's still available, fits perfectly, and is made (properly) of metal. I used a NAPA/Echlin part number SL322.

To contact the owner of this information E-mail C. Blome

Voltage Regulator

I have never tried this, but I am told that there is a (water-cooled) VW Voltage regulator that will work on 2000 cc Capris. Can anyone confirm this?

To contact the owner of this information E-Mail D. Wells

Wheel Bearings

Capri wheel bearings are rare & expensive in North America, however, I'm told that the outer wheel bearing from certain Camaros (not sure which ones) will fit perfectly, and these are much cheaper and easier to come by. I have not tried this. Can anyone confirm, or tell us exactly which Camaro bearing fit?

To contact the owner of this information E-Mail D. Wells

Engine Swap to a 302

A Ford V8 into a Capri is very simple. You need a late model Mustang pan, a modified driveshaft, a few simple adapters to the motor mounts (though lopping the mounts off the crossmember and replacing them entirely gives a cleaner job), you need to snip away the excess metal of the radiator shroud so you ran relocate the radiator further forward, and it helps to have the 4 cylinder brake booster as it gives more valve cover clearance. A '65-'68 Mustang or '68-'75 Maverick radiator will work. The stock transmission crossmember can be used if you drill new holes.

If you want to change the rear end at the same time, the Mustang II was available with an 8" posi of the correct width and wheel bolt pattern. All the bracketry will have to be moved from the old rear end to the new one, but it's nothing major to someone with a torch.

The 302 is narrower and not as tall as the V6, thought the timing cover and water pump make it longer. It's not enough heavier than the V6 to affect handling to any great degree.

To contact the owner of this information E-Mail Dave Williams

4 Pot Caliper Kit

The 4 pot caliper kit will not fit a 3 litre Ghia because the hub, stub axel and disc on this model is very different to that of the other Capri derivatives. Your only option is to fit the complete suspension struts from a 2.8 injection along with the hubs, discs and calipers. This, in fact, is a very worthwhile modification because it not only allows you the benefit of vented discs but also gives better handling, thanks to the Bilstein gas shocks and uprated springs, and of course the option of the improved drilled and grooved discs and the 4 pot caliper kit as they will bolt straight on. Ian Coulson Aff.I.M.I. Tech Adviser

2600/2800 V6 Weber Carburetor substitution

If you want to get more power out of a Capri V6 but don't want to switch to a 4 bbl. carburetor, there is an alternative: The Weber 40 DFAV. This carb is somewhat similar to the 32/36 DFAV (Holley 5200) that was used on 1972-74 V6 Capris, but it is larger and has throttles that open simultaneously instead of progressively.

There are several ways to accomplish the swap. If you have a 1972-74 Capri and don't mind retaining the 90 degree adaptor, then you can bolt the 40DFAV directly to the adaptor. The throttle linkage will require some modification; a Capri II throttle cable is often helpful, since it is a bit longer than the Capri I cable. The air cleaner must also be changed or modified: the top of the 40 DFAV is larger than the 32/36DFAV, and the bolt pattern is also different. You also may have to fabricate a base gasket.

Since the 40 DFAV's throttles open simultaneously, it is also possible to eliminate the 90 degree adaptor entirely. This eliminates the annoying "fuel starvation in hard right turns" phenomenon. The best way to do this is to machine both the intake manifold and the plate with the various vacuum fittings clear the 40 DFAV's throttle valves. The carburetor can then be bolted directly to the manifold. The plate goes in between, of course; otherwise you will not be able to hook up the various vacuum hoses! The throttle linkage will of course be completely different, but it is relatively easy to make a suitable linkage with a Capri II throttle cable, a Capri II throttle cable mounting bracket, a spacer, and a few springs. I enlarged the hole at the end of the cable so it would fit the ball on the 40 DFAV's throttle lever, anchored the cable to the cable to the intake manifold with the bracket (I used a spacer to get the bracket to the proper height), added a throttle return spring, and it worked!

If you have a 1976-77 Capri II, things are a little messier. The Weber 40 DFAV will not bolt directly to the '76-77 manifold. You can either fabricate an adaptor, or if you're ambitious you can do what I did: Replace the intake manifold and heads with those from a 1974 Capri. You CANNOT use the 1974 intake with the Capri II heads; the later heads have EGR passages, and the '74 intake does not have the corresponding passages. If you use this approach, then the throttle linkage fabrication is the same as described above for the 72-74 Capri. The stock air cleaner can be used if you fabricate an adaptor plate; otherwise an aftermarket air cleaner can be used.

I used a Weber 40 DFAV-1L on a 1976 Capri II 2800 with '74 intake and heads, and a set of tuned headers. I used the following calibration, which was provided by the Weber distributor:

        Main Venturis, 28mm

Aux. Venturis, 4.5mm

Idle jet, .60

Main jet, 1.80

Air corrector, 1.85

Emulsion tube, F2
Needle Seat, 2.50
Accelerator pump nozzle, 5

I'm not sure about the idle air bleed size, but the opening is a
little bigger than 1/16".

There are also very small holes (perhaps 0.040"/1mm) drilled in
the throttle plates.
I found it advantageous to make some minor changes to the carb. I turned the throttle lever around so it would align more easily with the throttle linkage, and I also substituted the choke housing from a 1973 Capri 2600 for the standard choke housing (the stock '76 air cleaner interfered with one of the choke hoses when the original choke housing was used). I believe there is also an electric choke version of the 40 DFAV available, which would eliminate any possibility of choke hose interference.

A final hint: After the conversion is complete, take your car to your friendly neighborhood distributor guru and have the distributor advance curves set up properly. Trust me, this makes a BIG difference! I have heard that the Weber 40 DFAV can also be used on 2000 SOHC Capris.

I have also used the Weber 38 DGAS on a 2600 V6. This also worked well. 38 DGAS has smaller main venturis than 40 DFAV, so it is better suited to the 2600 and less heavily modified 2800. The conversion procedure is very similar to the one for 40 DFAV. One advantage of 38 DGAS is that its air cleaner mounting pattern matches Weber 32/36 DGAV, so you can use readily available K&N air cleaners for 32/36 DGAV. These air cleaners are available from most Formula Ford race parts suppliers.

I have also heard that the Weber 38DGAS works very well on 2000 SOHC and 2300 "Lima" SOHC Capris. I would appreciate e-mail from anyone with information on these conversions.

To contact the owner of this information E-Mail L. Wells

5 speed Transmission for a 2.0 liter

Use the Rocket four speed from a 2.3 Mustang. You will need to fabricate some tepped bellhousing locating dowels, a stepped adapter ring for the driveshaft flange, and redrill the flange to the Fox bolt pattern. Then you swap in the whole shebang! - flywheel, bellhousing, clutch arm, starter, shifter, transmission, and driveshaft. You'll have to have the drive shaft shortened and rebalanced. In return you get an ordinary Ford start er replaceable anywhere, an internal rail shifter that's much more positive, and you lose a substantial amount of weight with the aluminum bellhou sing and tailshaft. The shifter even comes out in the right spot and the Capri clutch cable fits the new bellhousing. Downside is, first gear is quite a bit taller than stock, something like 3.35 instead of 3.65, and the gears are spaced closer.

To contact the owner of this information E-Mail Dave Williams

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last updated: 13 March 2010
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