ERIE CANAL CRUISE 2010
ERIE CANAL CRUISE REPORT 1
Where the Mohawk River dead-ends into the Hudson River, sits Waterford NY - the oldest incorporated village in the US and site of the annual Canal Festival. With two-hundred year old houses on narrow streets and an old-fashioned, one block long business district, the village is not in decline but, it is claimed to be actually growing though it's hard to tell. I guess you have to know where to look.
At the visitor center located on the town wharf (called "terminal" in these parts) we were briefed by an enthusiastic senior, Mary Jane, on the village attractions especially Don and Paul's Restaurant where all the locals go. Our adviser also gave explicit directions for walking the short two blocks using 3rd street, not 2nd because 3rd was where the village traffic light was installed. "Land's sake, those government workers coming home from Albany drive most irresponsibly; a person can get run over crossing Broad Street." Broad Street is probably named that because even with cars parked on both sides of the street there is still enough room for a lane of traffic in both directions which is not typical for other streets in Waterford.
Don & Paul's is early 20th Century style. Booths, tables, a counter with stools. The walls have a few group pictures of sports teams and other civic prides, a bowling league score sheet from 1950, a punch board ($.50 to $5 prizes), various canal activities pictures. A large Coke case sits in the center of the room because there is no other place for it. The clientele is an eclectic collection of local Norman Rockwell characters plus a few boaters presently moored at the terminal who have likely talked to Mary Jane. Two eggs, any style, toast, coffee: $1.75. Coffee is free on Thursday. Omelet's are $2.35 to a big $3.50 for the Western with everything. French toast (3 slices) $2.75. The dinner menu includes sirloin steak for $6.00 that we could not finish. Someone said that Don & Paul weren't aware that the depression was over. Just as Mary Jane promised, you always get enough to eat and the french fries are great. The place always busy, sometimes with a line outside. An adjoining room is just large enough for a pool table and small contingent of shooters and kibitzers where old farts hang out and there seems to be more general BS'ing than serious pool.
The Erie Canal starts in Waterford. The remains of the original canal had locks approximately 10 foot wide, 4 foot deep, and 50 foot long similar to canal locks in Britain of that period. The canals we floated in Canada last year were designed using the proven British engineering and that appears to be the case here. The locks were faced with limestone blocks and the doors were oak timbers. Manually operated doors and sluice valves. Each lock took the boats 6-10 feet in elevation. The new locks measure 45 by 335 with a 15 foot depth and are steel with an elevation change of up to 40 feet and everything is electrically operated. With very little commercial traffic the system these days is a recreational facility like the canals of Canada and Britain.
The short, mile and a half canal section joins the very natural and beautiful Mohawk River with nice forests and lots of wildlife. We mosey along the Mohawk listening for drums but none yet. One night we are anchored behind a small island in still water. Just after sundown the forest chorus tunes up. All those horny birds, bugs, and frogs get as noisy as human teenagers suffering the same syndrome. During the day little balls of yellow fluff line up for a cruise behind mama goose with dad as rear guard.
The river is almost deserted during this preseason period. We are moored to a wall near a lock. So far, only two boats have locked through today and it's lunch time. Some fishermen congregate at the lock. This is relaxed boating. Necessary boat projects are easily postponed.
Time to start a new book.
