Quick-Start Guide for Preparedness Newbies
I often get e-mails from folks that have just found SurvivalBlog or
that have just finished a copy of my my novel "Patriots" ,
that they received as a gift from a relative or a friend. Their
response is surprisingly uniform: People feel overwhelmed by
the enormity of what it takes to get a family prepared.
First, take a deep breath and relax. Just realizing that you need to
get prepared has already put you ahead of 70% of your neighbors, who
are sadly little more than clueless sheeple.
If you accumulate a one-month food supply then elevates your
preparedness into the 80th percentile of preparedness. And by the time
you work your way up to a one year supply, you'll be in the 98th
percentile. It's not very difficult, its not very expensive, and its
not very time-consuming. Just do it one step at a time.
First Things First
Before you begin to prepare, pray.
As a Christian, I put my trust in God's guidance, providence, and
protection. You can and should do the same. (See my Prayer
Then consider, Survival
Isn't About Stuff, It is About Skills.
You should take advantage of low-cost
and no-cost training.
Read my Precepts
page, to see the basics of what it means to be a modern day
Now you are ready to embark on an adventure that will result in not
only greater logistical preparedness, but also in learning valuable
skills that you can use throughout your life. These skills will build
your self-confidence and when combined with acquiring the requisite
tools, you'll develop genuine self-reliance--regardless of the
adversities that you might someday face. By being well-prepared and
well-trained, you'll also be in a position to share your skills and
some of your extra supplies with less prudent relatives, neighbors,
and friends. (Charity is
is one of the bywords of SurvivalBlog.)
Start with a "List of Lists"
As I described in my novel "Patriots" ,
you should start your family preparedness stocking effort by first
composing a List of Lists, then draft prioritized lists for each
subject, on separate sheets of paper. (Or in a spreadsheet if you are
a techno-nerd like me. Just be sure to print out a hard copy for use
when the power grid goes down!) It is important to tailor your lists
to suit your particular geography, climate, and population density as
well as your peculiar needs and likes/dislikes. Someone setting up a
retreat in a coastal area is likely to have a far different list than
someone living in the Rockies.
Your List of Lists should include: (Sorry
that this post is in outline form, but it would take a full length
book to discus all of the following in great detail)
Food Storage List
Food Preparation List
First Aid /Minor Surgery List
Nuke Defense List
Biological Warfare Defense List
Hygiene List/Sanitation List
Tactical Living List
Survival Bookshelf List
Barter and Charity List
JWR’s Specific Recommendations For Developing Your Lists:
House downspout conversion sheet metal work and barrels. (BTW, this is
another good reason to upgrade your retreat to a fireproof metal
Drawing water from open sources. Buy extra containers. Don’t buy big
barrels, since five gallon food grade buckets are the largest size
that most people can handle without back strain.
For transporting water if and when gas is too precious to waste, buy a
couple of heavy duty two wheel garden carts--convert the wheels to
foam filled "no flats" tires. (BTW, you will find lots of other uses
for those carts around your retreat, such as hauling hay, firewood,
manure, fertilizer, et cetera.)
Treating water. Buy plain Clorox hypochlorite bleach. A little goes a
long way. Buy some extra half-gallon bottles for barter and charity.
If you can afford it, buy a “Big Berkey” British Berkefeld ceramic
water filter. (Available from Ready
Made Resources and
several other Internet vendors. Even if you have pure spring water at
your retreat, you never know where you may end up, and a good filter
could be a lifesaver.)
Food Storage List
Store the essentials, in quantity:
Salt: Salt is very important to store, both for preserving food and as
a practical means to attract wild game. (It is noteworthy that in many
locales, natural salt licks are off-limits to hunters, since hunting
there is too easy and hence not considered sporting. That ought to
tell you something.) I recommend that you store several times more
salt than you think that you'll ever need.
Unless you literally live next to a salt lick or salt marsh, I cannot
overemphasize the importance of storing salt. The Memsahib and I
formerly lived in the Upper Clearwater River Valley in Idaho. In that
region, deer and elk would walk many, many miles to get to natural
salt licks where they would congregate in large numbers. Salt is cheap
and plentiful now, but in the event of TEOTWAWKI it will be a scarce
and valuable commodity in most inland regions. Salt also has a
virtually unlimited shelf life. Do some research on natural salt
deposits near your intended retreat. That could be quite valuable
knowledge in the event of TEOTWAWKI.
Lay in a supply of 10 pounds of salt per member of your family. (This
figure may sound high, but again it includes extra for attracting wild
game.) The portion for cooking and table salt should be iodized.
Rice:I prefer brown rice, even though its storage life is shorter that
that of white rice. The combined weight should be about 30 pounds per
adult, per year. Storage life is +/- 8 years.
Wheat (or substitute grains, for celiacs): Grain storage is a crucial
aspect of family preparedness. Grain will soon no longer be cheap or
plentiful, so stock up! Buy 220 pounds per adult, per year. (Part of
this can be in the form of pasta.) Storage life is 30+ years. Buy
plenty for your family and your livestock. I also recommend buying
plenty of extra for barter and charity. You'll soon be glad that you
I do not recommend storing flour, since it only keeps for two or three
years. Whole wheat stores for 30+ years with 80% or more of its
nutritional value. Buy whole grains and a hand wheat grinder.
Don't overlook the easiest preparation method of all: soaked wheat
berries. By simply soaking whole wheat for 24 to 36 hours, it plumps
and softens. When then heated, wheat berries make a nutritious
Corn: Whole corn stores much longer than cracked corn or corn meal.
(Grind your own.) Get 50 pounds per adult, per year. The storage life
of whole corn is 8 to 12 years, but cracked or ground corn stores only
18 to 36 months
Oats: Lay in a supply of 20 pounds per adult, per year. The storage
life of oats is 3 to 7 years, depending on variety and packing method.
Fats and Oils: I recommend storing primarily olive oil (frozen, in
plastic bottles), mayonnaise, canned butter, and peanut butter. The
combined weight of these should be about 96 pounds per adult, per
year. (Four gallons is about 24 pounds.) The canned products must be
continuously rotated, or else donated to charity bi-annually. The
frozen oil should be rotated or else donated to charity once every
Powdered Milk: Buy the nonfat variety. Store about 20 pounds per
adult, per year. For the longest storage life, it is best to buy
nitrogen packed dry milk from a storage food vendor. That type has a
5+ year shelf life.
Canned Fruit and Vegetables: It is most economical (and good practice)
to can your own. As long as you rotate continuously, you should lay in
a two year supply per family member.
Canned Meats: Again, you must rotate continuously, and don’t store
more than you would use in two years. I like the DAK brand canned
Sugars: I prefer honey (except of course for infants), but depending
on your taste, you will also want to lay in a supply of sugar,
molasses, sorghum, maple syrup, and various jams and jellies. The
combined weight of these should be about 50 pounds per adult, per
Other important items for your food storage:
- Canning lids and rings—buy plenty of extras for barter.
- Sulfur for drying fruit.
- Vinegar-Buy a couple of cases of one-gallon bottles.
- Baking soda.
- Food storage (freezer and vacuum) bags.
- Aluminum foil (Buy lots! 101 uses, including making improvised solar
- Deer bags.
Food Preparation List
Having more people under your roof will necessitate having an oversize
skillet and a huge stew pot. BTW, you will want to buy several huge
kettles, because odds are you will have to heat water on your wood
stove for bathing, dish washing, and clothes washing. You will also
need even more kettles, barrels, and 5 or 6 gallon PVC buckets--for
water hauling, rendering, soap making, and dying. They will also make
great barter or charity items. (To quote my mentor Dr. Gary North:
“Nails: buy a barrel of them. Barrels: Buy a barrel of them!”)
Don’t overlook skinning knives, gut-buckets, gambrels, and meat saws.
(Make a separate personal list for each family member and individual
expected to arrive at your retreat.)
Prescription and nonprescription medications.
Keep dentistry up to date.
Any elective surgery that you've been postponing
Work off that gut.
Stay in shape.
Back strength and health—particularly important, given the heavy
manual tasks required for self-sufficiency.
Educate yourself on survival topics, and practice them. For example,
even if you don’t presently live at your retreat, you should plant a
vegetable garden every year. It is better to learn through experience
and make mistakes now, when the loss of crop is an annoyance rather
than a crucial event.
“Comfort” items to help get through high stress times. (Books, games,
CDs, chocolates, etc.)
First Aid /Minor Surgery List
When tailoring this list, consider your neighborhood going for many
months without power, extensive use of open flames, and sentries
standing picket shifts exposed in the elements. Then consider axes,
chainsaws and tractors being wielded by newbies, and a greater
likelihood of gunshot wounds. With all of this, add the possibility of
no access to doctors or high tech medical diagnostic equipment. Put a
strong emphasis on burn treatment first aid supplies. Don’t overlook
do-it-yourself dentistry! (Oil of cloves, temporary filling kit,
extraction tools, et cetera.) Buy a full minor surgery outfit
(inexpensive Pakistani stainless steel instruments), even if you don’t
know how to use them all yet. You may have to learn, or you will have
the opportunity to put them in the hands of someone experienced who
needs them.) This is going to be a big list!
Chem/Nuke Defense List
Dosimeter and rate meter, and charger, radiac meter (hand held Geiger
counter), rolls of sheet plastic (for isolating airflow to air filter
inlets and for covering window frames in the event that windows are
broken due to blast effects), duct tape, HEPA filters
(ands spares) for your shelter. Potassium iodate (KI)
tablets to prevent thyroid damage.(See my recent post on that
subject.) Outdoor shower rig for just outside your shelter entrance.
Biological Warfare Defense List
Colloidal silver generator and spare supplies (distilled water and
.999 fine silver rod.)
Natural antibiotics (Echinacea, Tea Tree oil, …)
One important item for your gardening list is the construction of a
very tall deer-proof and rabbit-proof fence. Under current
circumstances, a raid by deer on your garden is probably just an
inconvenience. After the balloon goes up, it could mean the difference
between eating well, and starvation.
Tools+ spares for barter/charity
Long-term storage non hybrid (open pollinated) seed. (Non-hybrid
“heirloom” seed assortments tailors to different climate zones are
available from The
Herbs: Get started with medicinal herbs such as aloe vera (for burns),
echinacea (purple cone flower), valerian, et cetera.
Sacks of powdered lime for the outhouse. Buy plenty!
TP in quantity (Stores
well if kept dry and away from vermin and it is lightweight, but it is
very bulky. This is a good item to store in the attic. See my novel
about stocking up on used phone books for use as TP.
Soap in quantity (hand soap, dish soap, laundry soap, cleansers, etc.)
Bottled lye for soap making.
Toothpaste (or powder).
Fluoride rinse. (Unless you have health objections to the use of
Hoof rasp, hoof nippers, hoof pick, horse brushes, hand sheep shears,
styptic, carding combs, goat milking stand, teat dip, udder wash, Bag
Balm, elastrator and bands, SWOT fly repellent, nail clippers (various
sizes), Copper-tox, leads, leashes, collars, halters, hay hooks, hay
fork, manure shovel, feed buckets, bulk grain and C-O-B sweet
feed (store in galvanized trash cans with tight fitting lids to keep
the mice out), various tack and saddles, tack repair tools, et cetera.
If your region has selenium deficient soil (ask your local
Agricultural extension office) then be sure to get selenium-fortified
salt blocks rather than plain white salt blocks--at least for those
that you are going to set aside strictly for your livestock.
“Buckshot” Bruce Hemming has produced an excellent series of videos on
trapping and making improvised traps. (He also sells traps and scents
at very reasonable prices.)
Night vision gear, spares, maintenance, and battery charging
Salt. Post-TEOTWAWKI, don’t “go hunting.” That would be a waste of
effort. Have the game come to you. Buy 20 or more salt blocks. They
will also make very valuable barter items.
Sell your fly fishing gear (all but perhaps a few flies) and buy
practical spin casting equipment.
Extra tackle may be useful for barter, but probably only in a very
long term Crunch.
Buy some frog gigs if you have bullfrogs in your area. Buy some
crawfish traps if you have crawfish in your area.
Learn how to rig trot lines and make fish traps for non-labor
intensive fishing WTSHTF.
One proviso: In the event of a “grid
down” situation, if you are the only family in the area with
power, it could turn your house into a “come loot me” beacon at night.
At the same time, your house lighting will ruin the night vision of
your LP/OP pickets.
Make plans and buy materials in advance for making blackout screens or
fully opaque curtains for your windows.
When possible, buy nickel metal hydride batteries. (Unlike the older
nickel cadmium technology, these have no adverse charge level “memory”
If your home has propane appliances, get a “tri-fuel” generator--with
a carburetor that is selectable between gasoline, propane, and natural
gas. If you heat your home with home heating oil, then get a
diesel-burning generator. (And plan on getting at least one diesel
burning pickup and/or tractor). In a pinch, you can run your diesel
generator and diesel vehicles on home heating oil.
Kerosene lamps; plenty of extra wicks, mantles, and chimneys. (These
will also make great barter items.)
Greater detail on do-it-yourself power will be included in my
forthcoming blog posts.
Buy the biggest propane, home heating oil, gas, or diesel tanks that
your local ordinances permit and that you can afford. Always keep them
at least two-thirds full. For privacy concerns, ballistic impact
concerns, and fire concerns, underground tanks are best if you local
water table allows it. In any case, do not buy an aboveground fuel
tank that would visible from any public road or navigable waterway.
Buy plenty of extra fuel for barter. Don’t overlook buying plenty of
kerosene. (For barter, you will want some in one or two gallon cans.)
Stock up on firewood or coal. (See my previous blog posts.) Get the
best quality chainsaw you can afford. I prefer Stihls and Husqavarnas.
If you can afford it, buy two of the same model. Buy extra chains,
critical spare parts, and plenty of two-cycle oil. (Two-cycle oil will
be great for barter!) Get a pair of Kevlar chainsaw safety chaps. They
are expensive but they might save yourself a trip to the emergency
room. Always wear gloves, goggles, and ear-muffs. Wear a logger’s
helmet when felling. Have someone who is well experienced teach you
how to re-sharpen chains. BTW, don’t cut up your wood into rounds near
any rocks or you will destroy a chain in a hurry.
Now that you have all of those flammables on hand (see the previous
list) and the prospect of looters shooting tracer ammo or throwing
Molotov cocktails at your house, think in terms of fire fighting from
start to finish without the aid of a fire department. Even without
looters to consider, you should be ready for uncontrolled brush or
residential fires, as well as the greater fire risk associated with
greenhorns who have just arrived at your retreat working with wood
stoves and kerosene lamps!
Upgrade your retreat with a fireproof metal roof.
2” water line from your gravity-fed storage tank (to provide large
water volume for firefighting)
Fire fighting rig with an adjustable stream/mist head.
Smoke and CO detectors.
Tactical Living List
Adjust your wardrobe buying toward sturdy earth-tone clothing.
(Frequent your local thrift store and buy extras for retreat
newcomers, charity, and barter.)
Dyes. Stock up on some boxes of green and brown cloth dye. Buy some
extra for barter. With dye, you can turn most light colored clothes
into semi-tactical clothing on short notice.
Two-inch wide burlap strip material in green and brown. This burlap is
available in large spools from Gun Parts Corp. Even if you don’t have
time now, stock up so that you can make camouflage ghillie
Save those wine corks! (Burned cork makes quick and cheap face
Cold weather and foul weather gear—buy plenty, since you will be doing
more outdoor chores, hunting, and standing guard duty.
Don’t overlook ponchos and gaiters.
Synthetic double-bag (modular) sleeping bags for each person at the
retreat, plus a couple of spares. The Wiggy’s
Temperature Range Sleep System (FTRSS)
made by Wiggy's of Grand Junction, Colorado is highly recommended.
Night vision gear + IR floodlights for your retreat house
Subdued flashlights and penlights.
Noise, light, and litter discipline. (More on this in future posts--or
perhaps a reader would like to send a brief article on this subject)
Security-General: Locks, intrusion detection/alarm systems, exterior
obstacles (fences, gates, 5/8” diameter (or larger) locking road
cables, rosebush plantings, “decorative” ponds (moats), ballistic
protection (personal and residential), anti-vehicular ditches/berms,
anti-vehicular concrete “planter boxes”, razor wire, etc.)
light amplification scopes are critical tools for retreat security.
A Starlight scope (or goggles, or a monocular) literally amplifies low
ambient light by up to 100,000 times, turning nighttime darkness into
daylight--albeit a green and fuzzy view. Starlight light amplification
technology was first developed during the Vietnam War. Late issue
Third Generation (also called or “Third Gen” or “Gen 3”) starlight
scopes can cost up to $3,500 each. Rebuilt first gen (early 1970s
technology scopes can often be had for as little as $500. Russian-made
monoculars (with lousy optics) can be had for under $100. One Russian
model that uses a piezoelectric generator instead of batteries is the
best of this low-cost breed. These are best used as backups (in case
your expensive American made scopes fail. They should not be purchased
for use as your primary night vision devices unless you are on a very
restrictive budget. (They are better than nothing.) Buy the best
starlight scopes, goggles, and monoculars you can afford. They may be
life-savers! If you can afford to buy only one, make it a weapon sight
such as an AN/PVS-4, with a Gen 2 (or better) tube. Make sure to
specify that that the tube is new or “low hours”, has a high “line
pair” count, and minimal scintillation. It is important to buy your
Starlight gear from a reputable
dealer. The market is crowded with rip-off artists and scammers.
One dealer that I trust, is Al Glanze (spoken “Glan-zee”) who runs STANO
Components, Inc. in
Silver City, Nevada. Note: In
a subsequent blog posts I will discuss the relationship and
implications to IR illuminators and tritium sights.
Range cards and sector sketches.
If you live in the boonies, piece together nine of the USGS 15-minute
maps, with your retreat property on the center map. Mount that map on
an oversize map board. Draw in the property lines and owner names of
all of your surrounding neighbor’s parcels (in pencil) in at least a
five mile radius. (Get boundary line and current owner name info from
your County Recorder’s office.) Study and memorize both the terrain
and the neighbors’ names. Make a phone number/e-mail list that
corresponds to all of the names marked on the map, plus city and
county office contact numbers for quick reference and tack it up right
next to the map board. Cover the whole map sheet with a sheet of
heavy-duty acetate, so you can mark it up just like a military
commander’s map board. (This may sound a bit “over the top”, but
remember, you are planning for the worst case. It will also help you
get to know your neighbors: When you are introduced by name to one of
them when in town, you will be able to say, “Oh, don’t you live about
two miles up the road between the Jones place and the Smith’s ranch?”
They will be impressed, and you will seem like an instant “old timer.”
Guns, ammunition, web gear, eye and ear protection, cleaning
equipment, carrying cases, scopes, magazines, spare parts, gunsmithing
tools, targets and target frames, et cetera. Each rifle and pistol
should have at least six top quality (original military contract or
original manufacturer) full capacity spare magazines. Note:
Considerable detail on firearms and optics selection, training, use,
and logistic support are covered in the SurvivalBlog archives and FAQs.
When selecting radios buy only models that will run on 12 volt DC power
or rechargeable nickel metal hydride battery packs (that can be
recharged from your retreat’s 12 VDC power
system without having to use an inverter.)
As a secondary purchasing goal, buy spare radios of each type if you
can afford them. Keep your spares in sealed metal boxes to protect
them from EMP.
If you live in a far inland region, I recommend buying two or more 12
VDC marine band radios. These frequencies will probably not be
monitored in your region, leaving you an essentially private band to
use. (But never assume that any two-way radio communications are
Note: More detail on survival communications gear selection, training,
use, security/cryptography measures, antennas, EMP protection, and
logistical support will be covered in forthcoming blog posts.
Auto mechanics tools.
Bolt cutters--the indispensable “universal key.”
Emphasis on hand powered tools.
Hand or treadle powered grinding wheel.
Don’t forget to buy plenty of extra work gloves (in earth tone
Systematically list the things that you use on a regular basis, or
that you might need if the local hardware store were to ever
disappear: wire of various gauges, duct tape, reinforced strapping
tape, chain, nails, nuts and bolts, weather stripping, abrasives,
twine, white glue, cyanoacrylate glue, et cetera.
You should probably have nearly every book on my Bookshelf
page. For some, you will want to have two or three copies, such as
Carla Emery’s "Encyclopedia of Country Living". This is
because these books are so valuable and indispensable that you won’t
want to risk lending out your only copy.
Barter and Charity List
For your barter list, acquire primarily items that are durable,
non-perishable, and either in small packages or that are easily
divisible. Concentrate on the items that other people are likely to
overlook or have in short supply. Some of my favorites are ammunition.
[The late] Jeff Cooper referred to it as “ballistic
wampum.” WTSHTF, ammo will be worth nearly its weight in silver.
Store all of your ammo in military surplus ammo cans (with seals that
are still soft) and it will store for decades. Stick to common
calibers, get plenty of .22 LR (most
high velocity hollow points) plus at least ten boxes of the local
favorite deer hunting cartridge, even if you don’t own a rifle
chambered for this cartridge. (Ask your local sporting goods shop
about their top selling chamberings). Also buy at least ten boxes of
the local police department’s standard pistol cartridge, again even if
you don’t own a pistol chambered for this cartridge.
Salt (Buy lots of cattle blocks and 1 pound canisters of iodized table
(Stores indefinitely if kept dry.)
Two cycle engine oil (for chain saw gas mixing. Gas may still be
available after a collapse, but two-cycle oil will probably be like
Diesel antibacterial additive.
50-pound sacks of lime (for outhouses).
1 oz. bottles of military rifle bore cleaner and Break Free (or
Waterproof dufflebags in earth tone colors (whitewater rafting "dry
Semi-waterproof matches (from military rations.)
Military web gear (lots of folks will suddenly need pistol belts,
holsters, magazine pouches, et cetera.)
Pre-1965 silver dimes.
1-gallon cans of kerosene.
Rolls of olive drab parachute cord.
Rolls of olive-drab duct tape.
Spools of monofilament fishing line.
Rolls of 10 mil "Visqueen", sheet plastic (for replacing windows,
isolating airspaces for nuke scenarios, etc.)
I also respect the opinion of one gentleman with whom I've
corresponded, who recommended the following:
Strike anywhere matches. (Dip the heads in paraffin to make them
Cooking spices. (Do a web search for reasonably priced bulk spices.)
Rope & string.
Candle wax and wicking.
Lastly, any supplies necessary for operating a home-based business.
Some that you might consider are: leather crafting, small appliance
repair, gun repair, locksmithing, et cetera. Every family should have
at least one home-based business (preferably two!) that they can
depend on in the event of an economic collapse.
Stock up on additional items to dispense to refugees as charity.
the Barter Faire chapter in my novel "Patriots" for
some lengthy lists of potential barter items.
Where to Buy
Many of the items on the preceding lists are available locally.
Some of the more exotic items are available from SurvivalBlog's
advertisers. (They would appreciate your patronage. BTW, please
mention SurvivalBlog when you contact them.)
If you want to stock up on a large quantity of food and supplies all
at once at low cost,
then get a copy of my "Rawles
Gets You Ready" preparedness course, which
focuses on buying storage food and household consumables at "Big Box"
stores such as Sam's Club and COSTCO. The course binder has several
very useful appendices including one that details the shelf lives of
various foods, depending on packaging.
Don't Overlook Searching the Archives
Many of the questions that I get in e-mails are repetitious. Most
of these questions are covered in my FAQs, especially my
Original FAQ. Read that first. Also be sure to take full advantage
of the SurvivalBlog Archives. All of the more than 6,000 articles and
letters posted since late 2005 are in a fully
database, that can be accessed with the "Search
Posts on SurvivalBlog:"window at the top of the right-hand
bar on the
SurvivalBlog main page. You can use "and" as
a modifier, to get the right responses. For example, to find out how
to use five gallon food grade plastic buckets and mylar liners to
store grain at home, you could type in: "Bucket AND Mylar AND
Wheat" in the Search box, and it would return this
list of SurvivalBlog posts.
This information is all in the Archives, and it
is all free of charge (but
copyrighted). Take advantage of it!
The TEOTWAWKI Weekend Experiment
As I often mention in my lectures and radio interviews, a great way
to create truly commonsense preparedness lists is to take a three-day
weekend TEOTWAWKI Weekend
Experiment” with your family. When you come home from work on Friday
evening, turn off your main circuit breaker, turn off your gas main
(or propane tank), and shut your main water valve (or turn off your
well pump.) Spend that weekend in primitive conditions. Practice using
only your storage food, preparing it on a wood stove (or camping
A “TEOTWAWKI Weekend Experiment” will surprise you. Things that you
take for granted will suddenly become labor intensive. False
assumptions will be shattered. Your family will grow closer and more
confident. Most importantly, some
of the most thorough lists that you will ever make will be those
written by candlelight.
The Ultimate in Preparedness--A Rural Retreat
The ultimate in family preparedness is having a well-stocked rural
retreat with a plentiful water supply, located in a lightly-populated
agricultural area that is well-removed from major population centers.
Less than 1% of the population has a dedicated survival retreat. It is
an expensive proposition, but it can be a practical alternative that
can double as a vacation home or as a place to retire. (For any
readers that have the flexibility, I recommend relocating and living
at your retreat year-round.) Rural
retreats have been discussed at length in SurvivalBlog. I have a
lot of good general information on the criteria for selecting a
retreat locale available for free access in my Recommended
Retreat Areas web page.
For even greater detail, see my nonfiction book "Rawles
on Retreats and Relocation".