We decided to give the relatives a break from us and spend a day wandering Kaunas on our own.
I woke at 6:30, dressed and went out to run. Finally - having missed 3 mornings. I got cheered by 3 young men in an alleyway, who liked my Obama T-shirt. Back, showered, and down for breakfast. Gradually, the gang arrived. We decided to break up - oldies vs youngies for the morning. So Sharon & I headed up through New Town.
We walked around Saint Michael the Archangels church. It was built as a Russian Orthodox church for the tzar's soldiers. So it is called "soboras" for the Orthodox cathedral, or "sobor". |
Sharon was amazed at the proliferation of flowers everywhere, and (because her husband Kent does incredible woodworking) with the Lithuanian carvings. And this has both. |
From there, we walked to Ramybes park - and the Museum of Exiles and Political Prisoners. When we knew that the docent did not speak English, Sharon tried her German. The woman seemed a tad cold. Then Sharon told her that she was a Lithuanian from America. Hugs all around and the full tour. The docent was an exile as a child, and a lot of Lithuanians remember what both Russians and Germans did.
The museum is a small place, but with huge feelings. It took us this long to decide to visit there, even though - or maybe because - I went there with Mom in 2000. It is very tough to see what the exiles lived through - or died through. And especially hard for Americans to see how hard the Partisans fought the Soviets, expecting us to keep our promise and help. And we didn't. And they failed. Well, Sharon & I didn't think they really failed. Because Lithuanians kept the fight in their hearts, and did defeat the Soviets and reclaim their independence.
Sharon and me in the Partisans' area of the museum, with one of their - illegal - Lithuanian flags. |
Luckily, our mood was lightened when we got out, and this odd motorcycle drove past, blaring music. |
We headed back to Metropolis by amber gift shops, the Maxima grocery, the Internet cafe - collecting souvenirs and gifts for the folks back home. At the hotel, we made a lunch of Fortas Stipraausias alus, and old pastry of Elena's, chips (crisps in Europe), peanuts, apple (every relative gave us a bag), and some of Ona's pastries from last evening. Mari, Vikki, & Elena arrived and joined in. Then Sharon & I let Mari & Vikki explore on their own and took Elena to town.
We walked two blocks up from the hotel to the Z^aliakalnis funicular. Elena (the head in the lower right) was surprised that this woman could take her dog on the trip. What I call civilization. |
Sharon, Elena, & the funicular at the top of Z^aliakalnis. |
At the top, we couldn't resist the Church of Christ's Resurrection. It was only a short walk.
I could not believe the difference. In 2000, it was still dark brick and looming. No longer a Soviet warehouse, but in the earliest stages of restoration. Now it soars over Kaunas. |
The nave. That picture behind the altar is the Hill of Crosses with the huge statue of Jesus. Totally different from the old churches - and totally and appropriately modern. |
Then back down form Green Hill to New Town. We wandered through the square with the various museums, the statues commemorating Lithuanian independence between the world wars, and other monuments.
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Elena by my favorite statue. That is a woman, at a spinning her spinning wheel, teaching her child to read. In Lithuanian. The inscription reads " Lietuvos Mokykla 1864-1904" - meaning that the only instruction in reading and writing in Lithuania that was possible - and was also prevalent - in Lithuania at that period was secretly and at home. It sure brings a whole new idea of "home schooling". During that period, the Lithuanian language and the Latin alphabet were illegal. But our grandmother's father not only encouraged the use of the Lithuanian language but was a "book carrier' - one who risked imprisonment and even his life to disperse books in Lithuanian throughout the country. |
Back at the hotel, we got out post cards together to mail. And on to the pastas - post office. And, for foreign stamps, into the official "line of confused people". And I confused them even more because neither her Lithuanian, my English, nor Sharon's German made it understandable that I really did need all those 48 stamps. Thank goodness for the gentleman behind us, who sorted it all out.
We met Vikki & Mari on the way back to Metropolis. We relaxed a bit, then all went for dinner at Kondradas Uz^eiga, where Mom & I ate dinner and watched Lithuania play in the 2000 Olympics. I had their private label alus tamsus (dark ale) with pork cutlets with apple, mustard, & dilled potatoes. Delicious. A lovely relaxed evening.
All back to Metropolis. We met a busload of people and dogs from Finland on their way to a dog show in Budapest. Lots of puppy kisses. And I finally got to stroll Laisves aleja in the evening. Then we all hung out a while in our sitting room. Sharon admitted that her raspberry vodka tasted like cough syrup - the plain potato is the best. Mari & Vikki took an evening stroll. Then Mari & I split a S^tyturys Baltijos Tamsus. And to bed.
The next day: 10/1
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