Yes, a very steep funicular. And we got right up at the window.
But the view was spectacular.
Another early run along the pedestrian mall for me. Chilly. Vikki took a walk while I showered and dressed. Then we all breakfasted. Up to clean up, then down to meet Darius.
We walked around the corner - our street, S. Daukanto, is part of the mall - and into the van and off to Vilnius on the A1. Foggy & cold as we started; then sunny and warm for Vilnius. Saule wass good to us.
We parked and walked through Gediminas's new palace to the funicular. Several groups of school kids on history trips.
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Yes, a very steep funicular. And we got right up at the window. |
But the view was spectacular. |
At the top, we were at Gediminas's old palace and the tower, all from the 13th century. I'm pretty sure the "new" palace is also from then, just once Gediminas had secured the area and had the luxury to get fancy and by the rivers. The buildings up here were real fortifications. The whole area is high and surrounded by rivers. Very defensible.
Mari & Elena walking up the cobbled road Gediminas used to get to his palace. The funicular, of course, is too new. Poor Gediminas. |
Darius, Vikki with Sharon behind her, & me - all in front of the old palace. |
We visited the castle, which was full of military equipment from the various periods in which this castle was used. Mari had a ball, because of the SCA (Society for Creative Anachronism), she knew the names and dates and was thrilled to see actual original stuff. But we were not allowed to take photos. Drat.
Darius held Elena up on the wall, while Vikki and Sharon watched. That's the tower on the right. |
On top of the tower, we could really see why Gediminas chose this location. You feel like you're on top of the world. |
Old Vilnius, with some anachronistic Soviet towers. |
Note the message on the bank of the River Neris. It says "As^ tave myliu." - "I love you." It was evidently a marriage proposal - that worked. |
We rode down the funicular, and walked around the New Palace and Vilnius Cathedral. Then up into the old part of Vilnius
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Old Vilnius, with some anachronistic Soviet towers. |
Note the message on the bank of the River Neris. It says "As^ tave myliu." - "I love you." It was evidently a marriage proposal - that worked. |
We walked through Gediminas Square and past the cathedral - the first one in Lithuania. Then up into Old Town. And to Kaimes Kavina for a really traditional Lithuania meal.
The building for the president - Adamskas. He's in charge of foreign affairs. The prime minister, Kirkas, is in charge of domestic affairs. And "affairs" is not in the US sense. In the "business" sense. |
Elena at our table, with the decorations. |
I had a delicious fresh salad with lots of sunflowers seeds and honey dressing - and Baltijos tamsus alus, a great dark beer.
The gorgeous snake carving that was the lighting over our table. Why are Sharon & Vikki looking upset (me too, but you can't really see that)? Could it be that the kitchen lost all the lunch orders and we have waited ages? Yup, But, when the food arrived, it was worth waiting for. It really was all traditional Lithuanian food. |
The dog carving at the end of one of the booths in the kavina. Despite the lost orders, it was wonderful. Both the food and the atmosphere. The alus (beer) was also great. |
Full and mellow, we walked up Aus^ros vartu. A number of shops with the most incredible - and expensive - amber. On one side is a Roman Catholic monastery, on the other, a Russian orthodox one. We wondered if they come out for street fights in the evening. Armed, not with knives and fists, but with scripture and dogma?
The incredible gates to the Catholic monastery. Darius, Sharon, Vikki, Mari, & Elena are those specks in the right of the opening. |
The sign over the gate of the Orthodox one. |
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And, at the top of the hill, through a wedding party whose beautiful bride was having photos taken with this background, we came to the Gates of Dawn. This 16th century Renaissance city gate was part of the town fortifications. It sure is different from the ones I see in York!. According to Vilnius in Your Pocket, there is a chapel inside. Wonder if the wedding was in there? |
Then down the hill through more of that special Lithuanian architecture. Although Lithuania suffered in World War II, the cities were not bombed like other parts of Europe. So the buildings are genuine - not rebuilt or restored.
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And all the way back to Vilnius Cathedral.
Grand Duke Gediminas about to be pushed over a cliff by his long-suffering battle horse. Well, that's what it looks like. OK, from the front, the horse is to his right. |
Me, with Sharon & Elena, in front of the cathedral's bell tower. |
Into the van and off to visit Trakai. We walked along the lake and did a bit of touristy shopping at the stalls. Then visited Vytautas's castle, the new one, from late in the 14th century. We Americans have to reset our historic clocks.
The castle, across the lake. |
Elena, Vikki, Mari, Darius, & Sharon on the bridge to the castle. |
It was too late in the day to take the tour inside the castle. So we toured the outside.
The castle, up close and personal. |
Mari explained how the odd drawbridge worked. Man, it's great to have a Medievalist around. |
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Elena & I did somersaults. Give us a grassy hill, and watch out! |
Then further around the lake to explore a bit.
We discovered the old castle, built by Kestutis in the mid 13th century. Destroyed by the Tsarist Russians in 1655. But we explored the ruins. |
Then back along the lake. These are young swans. They won't be white until next year. |
To Karaliskas Soda for kibinai - ground mutton inside a pastry, sort of like big empanadas or calzone. But these are a specialty of the Karaims, fighters whom Vytautas brought from the Turkish.Crimea area and who stayed and formed a little community. They are now extinct or incorporated everywhere but here in Trakai. We eat the kibinai by dunking them into a broth. Really good.
Kestas and Aldona arrived with Dalius and his friend Tomas, who has worked at the Jolly Roger in Kill Devil Hills three seasons times. Sharon discovered that she and Kestas could also talk in German. We hung out a while. Then Vikki & Mari headed back to Vilnius with the guys to go dancing. Aah, to be young - and foolish. Kestas & Aldona took Sharon, Elena, & me back to Kaunas. I got Elena to sleep in Vikki's bed. I set an alarm and fall into bed because tomorrow we'd scheduled an early day.
The next day: 9/27
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