As loyal as we are to Yorkshire, we couldn't pass up the chance to see the Black Hill part of the Peak District National Park. We've read enough about it in the Stephen Booth mysteries. And it's right next door to the Holme Valley, sort of. SO, off to Derbyshire.
Our first excursion was after a great Sunday dinner at The Fleece in Holme.
We drove up the Woodend Road towards the Holme Moss TV masts. And had a hang glider soar low over us! Way up and onto the moors we go.
The moors from the car park, looking towards Black Hill and the Pennine Way. |
We parked, put on boots, and just headed off down the hill, across the moor. To avoid getting misplaced, we kept an eye back at the car park. Way at the bottom of the hill, we found and crossed a little stream. |
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Ewes were watching us, and keeping their lambs safe from these strange critters. |
OK, not a really long hike. But it did walk off some of the roasts and ales. And we did get to harass sheep. A major endeavor.
Before we left Holmfirth, we had to drive down to Castleton. Those Stephen Booth mysteries are all down in that area. And it sounds enticing - moors, caves, ruins, and all. As usual, Bernard gave us a map, directions, and a pub to find. He remembers it from stopping for coffee on bike rides. Man, this was a strenuous drive - and he did it on a bike!
From Holmfirth, southeast to Langsett, across the dam of Langsett Reservoir, and (with only one need to stop another driver for directions) onto The Strines. This is a narrow road that offers spectacular views up across moors with grouse-hunting bits - and down over reservoirs and distant habitation.
And then, a manor out of a Gothic tale or British mystery!
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Thornseat Lodge. Think about that name a bit. |
Bad boy and girl that we are, we parked just past it, by its rusted gates, and took a tour. No, we didn't dare go inside; it's truely derilict. But we wandered all over outside. What great stories we could invent about this place. And with a fantastic view. A real fixer-upper.
Further along, we followed Bernard's recommendation and stopped at The Strine Inn. The building dates from 1270, but was remodeled in the 1500's. Hmm, might have ruined the patina? Good enough for us. We even enjoyed the wildlife out back.
Of course, a ewe and lamb. |
One of a flock of peacocks. |
We get back to driving - and see a tower and a real current Hall across the valley.
On down the valley and the far east side of Ladybower Reservoir, Then down to Hope Valley, and on to Castleton.
What a disapointment. Castleton is a tourist trap. If it isn't a fancy pub or tea room, it's a jewelry shop or a gift shop. We followed the signs to the castle. It costs jsut to walk up. No little castle ruin is really worth $16 for us two today. There are also tours advertised of the various caverns in the area. But I'm not happy being underground at the best of times.
We meet some neat folks as we walk along through the real village to a cavern. How the heck can folks actually live here? That cavern looms over the whole place. Maybe I've read too much H.P.Lovecraft?
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Me, on my way to the cavern in the village. It's called either Peak Cavern or The Devil's Arse. Seems to be related to the sound of the air in the cavern. |
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As far as I got into the cavern. No way I'd pay to go into a deep dark cave and be terrified. Walking out the sun and under that much rock is beyond my abilities. Others might enjoy it. They can. |
We walked around Castleton a bit. But then drove up, out, and up the west side of Ladybower Reservoir. Had to stop several times to let ewes and lambs stroll across the street, which was a bus route. We found a car park, stopped, and walked up along the reservoir. We stop at the war memorial to the men from the village of Derwent who died in WWI - before the village was drowned to make the reservoir.
| Ladybower Reservoir. About the time we got this far up, a Spitfire flew down the reservoir! Rather exciting. Especially as this was where the RAF practiced dam bombing. |  . |
We then headed sort of northwest, up Snake Pass, where there have been some incredible snowdrifts. And into Glossop. We wandered around town a bit, then headed back over the moors towards the Holme Valley.
We came back up across the moors we'd visited days earlier. And found signs prohibiting hiking because there had been so little rain that there was fire danger.
I do talk to the Lithuanian goddess of the sun, Saule, and the god of storms, Perkunas. I do ask them to give us good weather (rain at night is fine). But I didn't mean for fire risk - or all the dangerous rains once we left.
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