Queretaro Parte 3 - El Cerrito

We had tentatively planned a trip to "City" (Mexico City) to see the big mac daddy pyramid at Teotihuacan. It would have involved a whole day trip and a stay at a hostel.

The more I thought about it, the antsier I became. My right hip was bothering me a lot and I was not crazy about leaving the relatively familiar and comfortable surroundings of Queretaro for the unfamiliar and somewhat foreboding giant of Mexico City.

I had some small trepidation about telling our hosts and possibly spoiling some deep planning on their part but no, everything was AOK (I think they were as relieved as I was.)

Now the great news!
Queretaro has its own pyramid - quite a formidable structure. about 4 miles southwest of the city.

We grabbed some lunch to go and piled into the car on a beautiful dry Winter's day and drove the 7km to El Cerrito. On the way there traveling the 4-lane (and several times previous) we passed a very colorful, relatively new neighborhood. I found that fascinating too....

Like I said, the city (founded in 1531) is currently growing leaps & bounds and this is a more recent (& happily garbed) gathering of structures. (click any photo on the page for bigger)


El Cerrito is one of the big three - Teotihuacan, Tula & El Cerrito - that were relatively concurrent civil & religious centers.

Locally important from @ 400 to 1500 CE (Common Era - same as AD timeline), Its peak occurred in the Postclassical period, from 450 to 850 CE, during the major Toltec cultural influence.

Over time, it became a sacred space or sanctuary. The buildings and altars around the pyramid are expressions of religious activities centering around the worship of a female deity, probably the "Old Mother" or "Mother of the Gods".

The place was occupied by pre-Columbian civilizations for more than 1,500 years peopled from Teotihuacan during the first stage, and then Toltec, Chichimec, Tarascan and Otomi.

When the Spanish arrived, it was populated by Chichimecas, sedentary and semi-nomadic cultures, with the local additions of Otomi and Purépecha.

"Their structures are truly monumental as it was an important religious and political center. There are several outstanding structures at the Great Pyramid, the Palace, the platform Foursquare, Square Dance and Sculpture Square." (from the guidebook)

You can't climb this pyramid - it is fenced off by the archeological powers who have recently begun investigations.

The monument had evidentally returned into a wooded hill over the idle years and a residence was built on the top before they rediscovered El Cerrito's bricks underneath and its' historical importance. ("Honey, does the house feel kind of wierd to you sometimes?")

It is on a large field and the exposed layered brick work is fascinating. Here's the view looking back at the city.

When I went to Europe in 1999 & 2000, I had never been to a country older than about 200 years (America). Seeing the monumental "Western Civilization" world in person with all its grand architecture and unbelievable art gave me a real sense of the historical scope of humanity - at least in the western world.

Here now, El Cerrito gave me an extension of at least another 1500 years back. Compared to my short life, humans have been building a long, long time. I would loved to have seen this place in it's heyday with all the busy newness & fresh bright colors.

(Maybe I did - I have an unsupportable pet theory that we lived in places we travel to during previous lives here.)

Surrounded by several species of giant cacti and some of the strangest looking "dry weather" plants I have seen. (only regret - shoulda got a photo of the real wierdy.) Lots of direct sun exposure - a hat is a wise accessory all year.

We picnicked in the parking lot before our tour. A totally fantastic day!.


Here's a link to the El Cerrito website in case you want to dig (pun, sorry) a bit more.

Here's is a link to a brief video I took that day & posted on YouTube




Big Love to All