Attempt on Mount McKinley - May 19 to June 7, 2012
Saturday May 19, 2012 - I flew to Anchorage by way of Chicago. I got a room at the Millenium Motel near the airport. The motel had a huge lobby with
many stuffed animals.
Sunday May 20, 2012 - I bought a bus pass for $5 and went downtown. I walked around downtown and some on the Tony Knowles Trail. I was halfway back
to the motel when I realized I had left my backpack in a restaurant. Luckily, I got a bus back downtown, got the backpack, and got another bus in time to
meet the shuttle for Talkeetna at the motel. At least I got my money's worth out of the bus pass. One of my teammates was on the shuttle, Pete Youngwerth
from Colorado Springs. The other teammates I met at Fireweed Station in Talkeetna. They were Paul Fung, Guru Huchachar, and Thomas Wong; all of New York
City.
Fireweed Station (photo by Guru)
Monday May 21, 2012 - Our guides, Stuart Robertson and Lhawang Dhondup, met us for breakfast. We then went to Alpine Ascents' hangar for gear check
and to the gear shop for some last minute purchases.
Lunch was pizza in Talkeetna. We then went to the park service headquarters for a briefing and to pay our climbing fee. We flew out shortly after this.
Camp was at basecamp.
Our Transportation to the Glacier
One of the Three Rivers in Talkeetna
Rivers of Ice
View from the Copilot's Seat
Tuesday May 22, 2012 - We hiked down Heartbreak Hill and then back up to 7000' where we left a cache. We continued on to 7800' and set up camp.
Basecamp
Wednesday May 23, 2012 - We retrieved our cache from 7000'.
7800' Camp
Thursday May 24, 2012 - Climbed Ski Hill to 9000', left a cache, and returned.
Guru between 7800' and 9000'
Friday May 25, 2012 - Climbed to 9000', retrieved cache, and climbed to 9500'
Saturday May 26, 2012 - Climbed to 11,000'.
View up Mountain from 9500'
Climbing to 11,000' Camp (photo by Guru)
11,000' Camp
Sunday May 27, 2012 - Climbed to 13,500' by way of Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Hill, and Windy Corner, left a cache, and returned.
Thomas between 11,000' and 14,000'
Monday May 28, 2012 - Climbed to 14,000'.
Tuesday May 29, 2012 - Moved tents to protected location, practiced fixed rope travel, and retrieved cache from 13,500'.
Wednesday May 30, 2012 - Climbed to 16,500' using fixed ropes for last 500', left cache, and returned. Thomas and Paul decided to go no further.
We would wait for another Alpine Ascents team to start their return from 17,000' camp before leaving 14,000' camp so Thomas and Paul could accompany them.
14,000' Camp
Thursday May 31, 2012 - Hungout
Friday June 1, 2012 - Hungout
Saturday June 2, 2012 - Walked to The Edge of the World
The Edge of the World
Climbers Approaching the Fixed Lines
Sunday June 3, 2012 - Climbed to the base of the fixed ropes. This is as far as I would go. Lhawang and I descended to 14,000' camp, met Thomas and
Paul, and hiked all the way back to basecamp, arriving at 3 am. Pete, Guru, and Stuart continued on to 17,000' camp where they spent four nights waiting
for good weather to summit. They never got it.
Climbing to Base of Fixed Lines (photo by Thomas)
Looking down on 14,000' Camp
Monday June 4, 2012 - It was too cloudy for planes to land so we hungout at basecamp.
Tuesday June 5, 2012 - Flew to Talkeetna and got a huge breakfast at the Roadhouse. Took shuttle to Anchorage. Shared a room with Thomas and Paul at Earth Bed and
Breakfast (1001 W. 12th Avenue).
Wednesday June 6, 2012 - Toured the Alaska Native Heritage Center in Anchorage. There was a free bus from the downtown visitor center. Flew to Denver.
