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The scope of this
project is to identify and explore the science of physics as it relates to the sport of surfing. My goal is to make a connection between science and something I enjoy, and to make the community more aware
of how science and the principles of physics play an important part in recreational
activities, such as surfing.
Surfing
is one of my favorite sports and is among the most complicated of all sports, requiring great skill to master.. By researching the physics behind surfing, I hope to gain a better understanding of how surfing works which
may help me become a better surfer.
THE
BOOK
The book Men Who Ride Mountains by Peter Dixon inspired me to
learn more about the sport of surfing and the technical aspects of it, including the importance of wave physics. The book explores the thrill and satisfaction of riding the waves and talks about the evolution of the
sport since the early 1900’s and advances in the technology and techniques (part of the science of surfing).
WAVES
The physics of waves is one of the most important
principles involved in surfing and the one which I investigated for this project. I
investigated the physics involved in how waves are generated and measured. Waves
are the carriers of energy and without this energy there would be no surfing.
Click HERE for the WAVES page
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