We meet our friend from yesterday - the blue-eyed horse.
A pied piper of sheep.
We start with a really cold early walk up into Gayle. It's neat to walk through Hawes as it awakes, meet the teen-agers waiting for buses to either Leyburn or Settle, and wander the farm lanes. Gets one ready for breakfast.
We meet our friend from yesterday - the blue-eyed horse. |
A pied piper of sheep. |
 Sheep and lambs. |
 Nancy and a friendly donkey. |
And back through Hawes to our bakery for Eccles cakes, a rich current pastry. Filling; good though.
And then off to Keld to walk the Corpse Way to Muker. Years ago, the church furthest up Swaledale was in Grinton, about 18 miles from Keld, at the top of the dale. Of course, no cars or good roads. So the Corpse Way is how they carried the coffin down the dale to the church. Yes, carried, as pall bearers, not even on a wagon. There are little dirt stands where the folks could rest the coffin along the way. We parked in Keld and looked for our first path. Got directions from two hikers resting on a stoop. And off to follow the corpses.
 The waterfall we were told to look for, go left to get to, and cross. |
 And up we climbed, with spectacular views. |
Which confused us. We couldn't find this river on our Ordnance Survey map. The River Swale should be on the other side of Kisdon Hill. Well, Kisdon Hill is that mound on the right. That is the River Swale. And Muker is down there where the river curves around to the right. These were all supposed to be on our left. That will teach us to listen to hikers. Heck, we look like reputable hikers. And I wouldn't believe my directions! But it was a great walk so far, and we did make it to Muker - and the Farmer's Arms for Dales Brewery halves.
And a visit to Saint Mary's church, which is lots newer than the Corpse Way. Those old timers would have appreciated having this parish. It's less than 3 miles from Keld. |
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We did go back the way we were supposed to go. So what we read on the hiking directions finally made some sense.
 A pied wagtail on a rock in the River Swale. |
 Looking across the River Swale at a deserted shale office and yard. |
 And the shale bank. |
And along to Hartlakes, labelled "the most haunted house in England".
 Chuck approaching the house. See any ghosts peeking out? |
 The livingroom. |
 The kitchen. |
And back into Keld.
 A cliff above the River Swale. Charles and Trish would definitely try climbing this. |
 A border collie herding sheep right past our parked car as we return. |
As we drove out of Keld, we spotted the war memorial where we should have started our walk. Next time. It may not have been the real corpse way, but I'll bet one or two families used our route back then. So there.
And back into Hawes. Relax, do some shopping. Then dinner at the Crown.
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