Hawes and the North Yorkshire Dales

We have loved Hawes ever since our first visit to England. It's where the James Herriot books are set, even if James Wight did live in Thirsk, down in the Vale of York.


The east end of Hawes, where the roads divide (in on the right - out on the left), with wonderful wooden carvings of a farmer, sheep, and a stock dog.


At the other end of town, the real thing.


Gayle Beck, in Gayle.

      

And in Hawes. It's also called Duerly Beck.

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Chuck and Nancy along the River Ure, which forms Wensleydale, to the north side of Hawes.

Our friends for years, the wall dogs. Two border collies who intimidate the tourists by glaring down from their wall. But we learned that they just wanted to toss a decrepit ball down for us to toss back over the wall for them to chase. By 2010, the older one (on the right)could no longer get up on the wall. But he was still game. And watched us through the gate.

And, of course, our pubs

      

The Crown, with coal fires in each room.

      
      

The Fountain, where we joined a crowd of folks in burgundy and Carolina blue, watching a football (that's soccer for us Yanks) play-off and cheering for Burnley.

In 2009, as usual, we headed up the west way from Haworth after our stop in Skipton to wander the High Street and check out the market stalls. Then we finally took a side jaunt and did the Malham Cove walk from our set of maps.


After a bit of our typical lostness, we walked to the cove. Peregrine falcons were nesting up in the heights. A steep climb to the right, And a walk along the limestone "pavements" way across to the left. Incredible views!

      

Then down along a woodland path by a little waterfall at Jannet's Foss.

      

And back around the corner and up to Gardale Scar, with a camp ground and a waterfall. Then into the village. And a pub.

And then up and into Gayle, which is barely separate from Hawes. We stayed at East House, on Old Gayle Road, just past the restored mill. The friendly landlady served wonderful breakfasts, while we watched the activity at the bird feeders. A nice, comfortable room, with great views over the beck to Hawes. And sheep in the back field.


Chuck in the lounge.

      

And in our bedroom


Looking out our bedroom window, across the sheep in the back field, the roofs of the Wensleydale Creamery, and Saint Margaret's church in Hawes.

      

Looking out from our breakfast table at a sparrow and a goldfinch.

We walked along the Aysgarth Falls before heading to the Black Sheep Brewery for the Sunday carvery. The next day we climbed Wetherfell above, and I do mean above Gayle. Next, we spent a day driving the dales. And we think we finally, with a few recoveries, did the proper walk on Addlebrough.

But, in 2010, we truly spoiled ourselves. We rented Rockville Cottage for a week. A lounge with a coal fire, a dining room with an electric "fire", a kitchen with a fridge, stove, and washing machine, two bedrooms, a bath with an enormous tub and a Tardis of a shower, a patio, and a garage! What luxury! And, besides the Spar grocery and Elijah Allen and Son grocery, just as we walked out of the tiny lane where we "lived", we faced Crockett's bakery and butcher shop. Nirvanah!


Chuck outside Rockville Cottage. It's what the Brits call a semi-detached house: attached on one side but not on the other.

      

The view from one of our bedroom windows, down the lane. And one of our neighbor cats.


Nancy relaxing on the patio behind the second floor. This is a dale, so things do go up.

      

And our garage, above the patio.

      

Breakfast in our sunny dining room.

      
      

Our comfortable lounge, with a real coal fire.

      
      

Chuck in our bedroom.

      

Nancy in our bathtub, in which she could float. The shower was as big as a Tardis!

      

We bought eggs at a farm on the way into Hawes. And we shopped at Crockett's butcher shop and bakery, the Spar grocery, and Elijah Allen's grocery. And got to cook our own breakfasts and most dinners. Of course, we had to eat a few times at the pubs. And have the occasional half pint. Well, a tad more than occasional.

On Sunday, Nancy joined the congregation at Saint Margaret's church while Chuck went shopping.

             

Saint Margaret's.

      

The Good Shepherd window, Nancy's favorite in the whole world.

             

After church, we headed to Masham and the carvery at Black Sheep brewery again. It was crowded, including a big birthday group who came in this bus to celebrate a great-grandmother's birthday. Of course we returned via Brymor Dairy and ice cream cones. The roads were littered with bits of dead pheasants, who prefer to run across the road rather than fly. The possums of Yorkshire: created dead by the side of the road.

      

This year, we were determined to try new places and new hikes. So we drove to Lake Windemere and explored the Sawrys. We followed a pamphlet and walked from Hawes to Thorny Mire and back. We drove to Keld and walked the Corpse Way, or not. We explored Richmond and Grinton. Then, we gave in and visited Hardraw Force again.


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