Guide - Removal
Raise vehicle and place securely on jack stands so that there is at
least 19“ of clearance at the side to enable removal of the
transmission from beneath the vehicle. More would be better, but
is what is necessary.
Start and warm the engine (primarily,
the exhaust system). The exhaust heat will make it easier to
the exhaust flange stud nuts and the oxygen sensors. You can even
perform this from beneath the vehicle while the engine is still
running. If you planned ahead, you will have already soaked the
exhaust fasteners with penetrating oil.
After the exhaust fasteners are
loose, and while the transmission and drive line are still warm, on AWD
and 4WD vehicles, loosen the transfer case adapter and any accessible
transmission bolts. Only break them loose - Don’t spin them out.
any other fasteners with penetrating oil.
Place the transmission selector in
NEUTRAL, disconnect the battery, and isolate the cable(s) to prevent
If the vehicle has a mechanical
radiator fan, you may want to remove either the fan or fan shroud to
allow the engine to tilt without interference.
Drain the transfer case (if
equipped). On AWD and 4WD vehicles with a floor mounted shift lever for
the transfer case, remove the interior floor trim and disconnect the
Match-mark the universal joints at
their differential ends (paint works well for this) so they can be
assembled in the same orientation, then remove the drive shafts.
AWD front drive shaft has a detent locking ring on the splined transfer
case output shaft. It may require a light bump with a pry bar to
disengage the drive shaft from the transfer case end.
Remove the oxygen sensor(s). If
vehicle has post-converter sensors, mark the rear sensors as they are
sometimes different from the main (front) sensors.
Remove the exhaust crossover and
pipes/exhaust assembly as necessary. Most frequently the crossover will
interfere with removal and installation of the transmission, and it
must be removed.
Remove the transmission neutral
safety switch wiring, main electrical harness, transmission cooler
lines, shift linkage, and disconnect any clips or brackets which may be
mounted to the transmission. On several vehicles the fuel and
lines and other electrical harnesses are attached to the transmission
housing by clamps.
Some vehicles will have additional
brackets or supports for the transmission and/or transfer case.
On AWD and 4WD vehicles, support the
transmission securely beneath the pan with a separate jack and wood
block. Do not use your transmission jack for this since you may
to use two jacks simultaneously to maneuver the transfer case from the
Remove the transmission mount and
Astro and Safari AWD vans, the cross member which
mounts the rear of the transmission also carries the anchors
for the fixed ends of the torsion bars. Some additional steps
will be necessary to enable the cross member to be removed
penetrating oil to both torsion bar anchor/adjustment screws, then back
off the screws while counting the number of turns. Make a note of
so they can be adjusted to the same position upon assembly. Once
tension is relaxed from both torsion bars, remove the cross member and
slide the bars from their sockets at both ends.
Mark the bars for
orientation, both left/right and front/rear ends of each
want to install them in the exact orientation they were originally
For AWD and 4WD
vehicles, remove the
skid plate from the bottom of the case, and disconnect all electrical
connectors and the vent hose. Support the transfer case on your
jack. Unbolt the transfer case from the transmission adapter and remove
Blazer/Jimmy there is precious little room to remove it
to the center cross member, so it will have to be twisted and tilted to
clear the cross member on the way out.
Remove the starter from the
engine and remove the stamped steel closure ring surrounding the
Rotate the engine to align a torque converter bolt with the starter
hole, and match-mark the converter and flexplate for orientation so
they can be assembled exactly as removed. The converters are
to be neutral balanced independently of the flexplate, but it is always
safest to assemble in the same orientation. Remove the visible
converter bolt. There are three converter bolts, so you will need
rotate the engine three different times to access all of them.
Support the engine safely with a separate jack and whatever rigging is
necessary, then secure the transmission jack beneath the
approximate balance point is about 1/3 of the distance backward along
the length of the pan, even with the torque converter installed.
the jack holding the engine and lower the transmission jack to permit
access to the upper trans mounting bolts, then remove the upper
Monitor the clearances around the rear of the engine and at the
radiator as the engine is tilted downward at the rear. Keep at
two bolts along the side of the transmission installed loosely to guide
the transmission off the dowels. Make sure all electrical
hoses, and brackets are removed and clear of the transmission.
transmission dipstick tube is also frequently mounted by one of the
trans bolts. Use a thin pry bar to loosen the transmission from the
engine, since it will frequently be stuck to the mounting dowels.
the transmission is loose from the engine, remove all the remaining
bolts, then lower the transmission.