World War II PT Boat information

I have this information broken up into two categories: information on the real PT Boats, and information on modeling the PT Boats. Generally, this applies just to the 80 foot Elco PTs, because that is what I modeled.

Information on real PT Boats includes :

Modeling tips for R/C boats include :

Theaters of Action

• U.S. PT Boats served in all theaters of operation during WWII from 7 December 1941 to August 1945.
• They served in the U.S. Navy, the British Royal Navy, and the Russian Navy.
• I have read several accounts that say PT-23 of Squadron 1, one of 12 PT Boats stationed in Pearl Harbor on the morning of 7 December 1941, was responsible for shooting down the first Japanese aircraft of the war with its .50 caliber machine guns.
• PT Boats were heavily involved in the South Pacific. In the early stages of the war, they came up against destroyers and the "Tokyo Express." The majority of the action in the Pacific theater though was "barge busting" or going after and destroying the supply barges. This was mostly the 77 and 80 foot Elco boats. The Higgins boats took a back seat to the Elcos.
• In the Pacific, the PT Boats' main weapons were not the torpedoes, they were heavy caliber guns, rockets, etc. that could destroy heavily armored barges. Many PT Boats made field installations of army artillery cannons, and the 37mm automatic cannons from the P-39 fighter plane.
• PT Boats were very active in the Mediterranean Theater of Operations (MTO). The PT Boats in the MTO came up against every kind of boat and ship the enemy could throw at them. The Higgins PT Boats ruled this Theater.
• In the MTO the PT Boats came up against heavily armored and armed ships, some, the equivalent version of the PT Boats.
• Also in the Mediterranean, the torpedo was the PT's primary weapon because of the types of ships they encountered.
• PT Boats also played a role in the D-day invasion. Their task was to keep the German E-boats away from the invasion forces.
• PT Boats played a large part in the retaking of the Philippines. It was the PT Boats that got Gen. Douglas MacArthur out of the Philippines in 1942, and it was aboard the PT Boats that he returned in 1945.

* This information is based on what I can decipher from the text and pictures of the books I have. *
• Except for the pictures of the PT Boats fresh from the factory [these were the light gray boats with a darker (red or dark gray) below the waterline] every picture I came across of boats in action were dark or camouflage. Whether it's dark gray or green or some variation I cannot be sure.
• I'm still working on confirming the actual paint scheme of the PT Boats in combat zones. The camouflage paint scheme is confirmed because there are so many obvious pictures of the boats painted in camo.
• The light gray paint job on the PT Boats was the peacetime color. I was able to confirm this when I came across a caption of a photo in one of my books. So the light gray paint job that is shown on some of the model kits was actually the peacetime color scheme.
• I came across several references to a camouflage paint scheme called "Measure 31 camouflage" which was designed for inshore operations. This was used on boats in the Pacific as well as in the Mediterranean. One picture of a boat in 1944 based in the Mediterranean had this Measure 31 scheme. I don't really know what that means, but maybe you can find exactly what "Measure 31" means.
• Pacific Theater PT Boats were almost always painted camouflage (greens) or some form of green with red below the water line. The reason being, the boats were harder to see against the backdrop of the islands.
• In the Mediterranean, I believe they were more the dark gray color with the red or dark gray below the water line, although, there were likely many camouflage boats as well.
• Elco tried a black & white "Zebra" scheme to confuse the outline of the boat. It didn't really prove its worth in action and it was so hard to maintain that the idea was scrapped.
• A lot of PT Boats had the white star, typical of WWII marking, on the deck or the top of the cabin. This was done, mainly in the Atlantic and Mediterranean, because the PT Boats looked very similar to the enemy ships when American pilots were flying overhead. There were a number of tragic cases of American pilots attacking US PT Boats.
• Early PT Boats had an insignia painted on the cabin sides. This was the mosquito carrying a torpedo. This logo was removed when the Boats entered the combat zone. The logo was very obvious and stood out so much that it looked like a target on the side of the cabin. You'll probably see this logo on other PT Boat WEB sites. It's a pretty neat illustration of an angry mosquito ready to drop a torpedo into the water.

* This section could be huge because of the "customization" the soldiers typically did to their boats in the field. In general, in the Pacific, they did many "field installations" of cannons and other heavier artillery pieces because they were attacking heavily armored, lightly armed supply barges. *
* In the MTO and Atlantic, it seems that there was more factory installations of new weapon systems because they were up against heavily armored AND heavily armed boats. *

• Elco boats had 4 torpedoes. The first half of the war all PT Boats used old, WWI era Mk VIII torpedoes that were launched out of a torpedo tube. The torpedoes were troublesome at best. They were prone to not explode and they often missed their targets. Plus the launching method often gave away the position of the boats at night. This was due to the charge that launched the torpedo exploding outside the tube and lighting the PT boat up for the enemy to see. This warned the enemy of incoming torpedoes so they could easily turn into the "fish" so they would miss, and it gave the enemy an easy to see target.
• By late war, a rack system was developed that would allow the PT boats to launch airplane torpedoes, Mk XIII torpedoes, from a rack. The torpedoes would roll out of the rack and into the water next to the PT Boat. The torpedoes were more reliable, smaller, lighter, and just all around better. However, by the time this new launcher was installed on PT Boats in the Pacific, the use of torpedoes was a rare event due to the barge busting campaign going on.
• All PT Boats carried a smoke generator with a non-refillable bottle on the stern. This was used often times to cover their retreat after firing their torpedoes at an enemy ship.
• At least some PT Boats carried Type C 300 pound depth charges. This wasn't so much for the purpose of sinking submarines as it was to deter enemy ships from pursuing them.
• Elco 80 foot PT boats were armed with two Browning .M2 twin 50 caliber air cooled machine guns, one on each side of the boat.
• Early PT Boats usually had an Oerlikon Mk 4 20mm cannon on the stern. Primary use was against aircraft, but in the Pacific, it was great for barge busting and shore bombardments.
• The Bofors 40mm cannon was highly favored by PT crews because of the destructive power it packed. After 1943 the Bofors was a standard feature on all PT Boats. They were usually on the stern, but could also be found on the bow of some boats. The Bofors could only be added after the lighter Mk XIII torpedoes and racks were installed. The extreme weight of the old steel torpedo tubes being removed allowed the heavy Bofors to be added without hurting the PT Boat.
• 37mm automatic cannons were also a prized item. Early on, they were taken from a P-39 and field adapted to the bow of the PT Boats. Later in the war, they were supplied as standard armament.
• Eight shot rocket launchers for 5 inch, fin stabilized rockets were also added to some PT Boats.
• Mortar launchers were typical armament used. Often the crews took standard army mortars which were very hard to aim from a moving boat.
• After mid-1943, almost all PT Boats carried the following armament: Mk XIII torpedoes on light weight racks, 37mm automatic cannon on the forecastle, a 20mm cannon on the bow, a rocket launcher, a 40mm Bofors cannon on the stern, and usually extra .50 cal machine guns on mounts on the sides of the boat.
• In the Pacific, around mid-1943, many of the 77 foot Elco PT Boats were converted to gun boats. They sometimes carried 2 40mm Bofors and lots of other heavy fire power. This made them a formidable barge busting boat.

Detailing Information

• Check out HR Products (link is below under "Boat Plans") for tons of great cast metal detail parts including 40mm Bofors, 50 cal. guns, cleats, bitts, deck vents, fire extinguishers, etc.
• The military figures I have on my PT Boats came with the Lindberg kit. I modified them a little in regards to their arm positions, etc. You can buy scale military figures from just about anywhere. I'd suggest your local hobby shop first, then check online.
• When I painted my boats, I used a dull-coat spray over the whole thing to tone down the shiny paint and decals. The advantage was, it looked a little more realistic, the disadvantage was that it's hard to clean the boats after a run. After a few runs they got a little grimy. This makes them look weathered so it does have a positive affect I suppose. Weathering in general though is pretty tough on a model intended for use in water. You'll have to paint on the "weathering effects" details versus chalk or other weathering methods.
• Don't forget to add the limiting rails to the gun tubs and 20mm cannon. The limiting rails kept ambitious gunners from accidentally shooting up their own boat if they had something in their sights they were following. I made them out of thin brass rod.
• Torpedoes can be modeled if you're really good. I've read about torpedoes being modeled that used CO2 cartridges for propulsion. I've also read where they use small motors and props and make it just like the R/C submarines. With a 1/32 scale kit, those torpedoes might be a little small to make them functional. If anyone knows how, I can put your information here so others can contact you!
• I have more information about detailing the models on my other page "PT Boat Information Page" (see link at top or bottom of page).

• This isn't exactly a "propulsion" thing, but it's related - Radios can be simple 2-channel surface radios up to multi-channel surface radios. The basic transmitter you need, and what I use, is a 2-channel radio. There are also very good surface transmitters that give you over 7 channels for use. You only need more than 2 channels if you want to control some of the details, such as: a working smoke generator, turning the guns, firing torpedoes [if you can model that!], etc. One word of caution - make sure you use a SURFACE use radio ONLY!!!!
• Motors: I personally would suggest the basic 540 or 550 type brushed can motor. You can get water cooling jackets for them (also recommended!), they're cheap, and they can take a fair amount of abuse (I've personally submerged one on accident and it still works!). Plus I've heard from others who were concerned about using a tuned, high RPM engine, or a brushless motor setup because it could vibrate the "flexy" hull too much.
  • Two (2) motors with direct drive or one (1) motor and a transmission. Both work from what I know and have heard from other modelers. The advantage of 1 motor and transmission is the lower total weight because you have one motor and one battery. I don't know the performance differences though.
• Speed controllers: My R/C boats all used mechanical speed controllers. Today there are Electronic Speed Controllers (ESC) that can handle two brushed motors without a problem. That is what I use today.
• Running hardware: I just used straight 1/8" brass shafts threaded at the end and brass tubing for the stuffing tubes on both boats. I used universal joints from R/C cars to go from the motor to the shaft. It works fine.
• Running hardware con't: Many people have emailed me about using a flex shaft set up, I have not heard how well it works though. Biggest thing is, make sure the angle of the prop shaft coming out the bottom of the hull matches the kit angle. This will get the bow out of the water.
• For the PT 109 I used the kit props, the 169 I used counter-rotating, after-market props. I like the counter-rotating props better because it counteracts the torque. One question I get often is what type of prop to use. That is a good question. A realistic sized 3 blade prop (which is what they really used) may not work well for a model. The kit props work well. I'd suggest looking up Octura for prop suggestions. This is not Octura's website, but it has a link for prop suggestions. If anyone has suggestions for what works well for their boats, I'll put it here.
  • I received an email regarding props that are reportedly better than the kit props. A group of PT Boat modelers in Charlottesville Virginia have found that the Dumas prop #3002 (1/8 in. plastic prop/09), which is a 1 1/4" diameter nylon propeller (Tower Hobbies) for 1/8 inch shafts, works great. It allows the 540 type motor to spin at high rpm which keeps it and the batteries from running hot so you get higher speeds and longer run times. Thanks Ernie!
• The real boats ran with 3 engines, 3 props, and 3 rudders. Difficult to model, but not impossible.

• The Lindberg kit, as far as I have found, is out of production. They had a limited run of a "special edition" kit, but that was discontinued as well. I'd suggest checking eBay for the kit.
• Dumas I think still makes a PT 109 kit. Dumas kits I don't think come with the running hardware. Also, I do not believe the Dumas kit comes with people, whereas, the Lindberg kit came with the figures that are seen on my boats.
• Plastic models: The hulls on the Lindberg kit are rather flexy. I would strongly suggest putting internal bracing in. I used a sheet of thin (1/8") modeling plywood to mount all of my radio gear and motors to. This also acts as a good brace. I also put some styrene tubing across the hull to keep it from twisting.
• Weight: I must caution against adding too much bracing and/or weight to the boat. You don't want it sitting too low in the water. My PT 169 is too stern heavy, you can see when it's running that the stern is way low in the water. That has to do with my placement of the batteries and motors. I should have put them further forward. When you add the R/C stuff, including batteries, put the boat in your tub and see if it sits on the waterline. You can use tape or pencil marks to temporarily mark the waterline until the boat is painted.
• I've been asked about converting static kits to R/C. I say go for it! Absolutely you can make a static display model into R/C. Make sure the hull is sealed so you don't get water leaks and make sure you reinforce it so it doesn't vibrate apart from the motor vibration (see bracing above).
• Build for a price: I do not build models to sell. Sometimes I wish I had the time to, but I don't, so I cannot build you a boat. And my boats are NOT for sale! If anyone does build models to sell, please let me know and I'll put your contact information here.
  
  • Check out eBay. I've heard from several modelers that they've sold and/or bought kits and finished boats online.
• The cost of a PT Boat model (R/C or static) can vary drastically depending upon where you can find one.
  

• Try a single motor running through a transmission to run the props counter-rotating with a single battery.
• Make a better radio box built in to protect the radio. I put that in as a last minute thought, so it's really bad. Stuff gets wet sometimes.
• Airbrush both models, skip the spray paint. I sprayed the 169 and airbrushed the 109. Both used the same Testors paint color, but I like the tone of the 109 better.
• Redo the rudders. They fit really badly in their mounts and I always get water coming into my hull from there. Very annoying!

• Here are a few places I found that have some plans:
  • Taubman Plans Ship plans. He has a 1/4" scale 80 foot PT Boat plan for sale. I don't know anything about it, but I found it when I did a search of his database of plans.
    
  • The Floating Drydock They are the definitive ship plans source, includes lots of PT Boat plans
  • Smithsonian Institute collection of watercraft plans in the National Museum of American History
  • HR Products sells books, scale fittings and other detail parts.

• This organization was established by veterans of WWII to preserve the history of everything related to PT Boats: PT Boats Inc.
• National Park Service: PT Boats of World War II
• National Archives: "Sixty Years Later, the Story of PT-109 Still Captivates"
• The National Museum of the Pacific War's PT Boat Virtual Tour
• The National WWII Museum New Orleans has an operating WWII Higgins PT Boat, PT-305
• San Francisco Maritime National Park Association has a book published in July 1945, "Know Your PT Boat"
• John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum: JFK and PT-109
• Military Factory.com has a detailed history of the Higgins PT Boat
• Documentary on YouTube: The Patrol Torpedo Boats
• NavSource Naval History's site has a list of all PT Boats and info on each one
• This site is a personal account of the owner's father, a PT boat radioman: PT Boat Red
• This is another personal account of the site owner's grandfather: PT-171

• Dumas boat models
• Graupner boat models
• Chuck Zendner's models and links
• PT Boat World by T. Garth Connelly who is a Naval Historian and wrote some of the PT Boat books I used for reference.
• PT King has lots of PT Boat information and models
• Horizon Hobby used to sell the Pro Boat PT-109 EP RTR

Go back to Sean's R/C Boat Page
Go to Sean's PT-109 and PT-169 Information Page for information on the models I built.