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Tutorial page

First is the list of ingredients:

 

For ½ “ Dia. Round gouge.  (3/8” flute gouge):

1 each     ½ “ compression to ½ “ pipe fitting brass or stainless steel (more $ for SS)

1 each     ½ x 18” black pipe threaded on at least one end (mostly come both ends threaded, galvanized is ok but usually runs 2$ more.

1 each     18” length of reinforced 7/8” hose (or hose of your choice) pipe OD is 13/16”.

1 each     ½” brass pipe cap (or make one from wood and use NPT tap ½” or variation of such like turn a plug but that will not cover up the other thread which is dangerous)

For 5/8” Dia. Round gouge.

1 each 5/8” comp to ¾ “ female pipe

1 each ¾ x 18” black or galvanized pipe (OD IS 31/32” and will be tight fit) I had to scrub off the pipe clean. If you have problems with this hose keep cleaning it.

e-mail me if you have a hard time getting this hose on, I have an unorthodox solution.

1 each 1” x 18” long clear drain hose.

 First thing to do is drill out the shoulder in the comp fitting. Two ways to do it;

1) Chuck it up in the lathe (I used the brad point as it does a finer job of enlarging an already large hole, comes out smoother and that is what I wanted).

2) Clamp it in a vise and drill it on the drill press. Be sure to clamp the vise down as the bit of a normal drill will grab as the speed of the outer edge of the bit is way more than the center point than it would be on a solid piece. And it has to start cutting in an area that would under normal operations would already have had something for the bevel to rest on, that’s why I use the brad point as the points get support from the start, If you use stainless then do not use the brad point.

 (Pic 1 here)

(Pic 2 here)

 Once the shoulder is cut, take the gouge and insert to burnish the cut, as it will be somewhat tight, if your cut is even, the gouge will smooth out the hole and you will be able to slide the shaft in and out nicely. On the 5/8 “ handle I made, I had to use a 5/32” #2 round file to clean up the cut as it wobbled from using a Silver-Deming bit.

Wire brush the threads on the pipe to get them smooth and clean before screwing on the fitting or you may get a gall and jam up on the threads.

 (Pic 3 here)

Slide on the hose to the fitting and cut off the excess.

(Pic 4 here)

Brush the threads on the end and install end cap.

Now you can take the gouge out of the handle to sharpen. Now you can buy thru ground ( like the one I got from Serious)  gouges and put diff grinds on the two ends instead of only one , now you can use a host of tools with just the one handle or two. I have two the 1/2  and 5/8. ( see next page as I am working on using  carbide bits for hollowing tools for the handles)

If you have any questions e-mail me.

 

 

 

Pic 1 Drill out the shoulder inside
ITSHANDLE1.JPG

Pic 2 Drill out on chuck or use drill press
ITSHandle2.JPG

Pic 3 After drilling burnish hole with gouge
ITSHandle3.JPG

Pic 4 Screw on to the threaded pipe
ITSHandle4.JPG

Wood handle with 1/2 inch pipe inside
ITSWOODHANDLE4.JPG

5/8 pipe gouge
ITS5EIGHTSHANDLE2.JPG
Has Ellsworh gouge installed

1/2 '' gouge
ITSHANDLEHALFINCH.JPG
Serious V flute 1/2 w/ dif

Wood handle is made of two inch x two inch blocks, spaced with some 3/4 x 2 exotics ( end grain what was I thinking ?) drilled thru with 13/16 spade bit and reamed to fit pipe nice. Pipe dia is just over 13/16 unless you have a machine shop turn to 13/16'' exact, but this exercise is to keep cost down so you can buy more other fun stuff.
I glued up half the handle first with the pipe in it to align the blocks , clamp it nice , not tight and then pulled the pipe out so it would not get glued in yet. Once both halves are glued  and set (  waited about 30 minutes) I put the pipe back in and sticking out about an inch the other side of one of the halves, I then glued the two halves together, set the clamp nice and snug ,not tight and pulled the pipe back about 6 inches. Let it sit about 30 minutes and took 36'' pipe clamp and jacked the pipe all the way to the end leaving enuf thread showing to screw on the compression/pipe adapter up snug to the wood. Then mounted the fitting side in my G3  chuck  and sorta guessed at the center for the tail stock and made sure all were snug and turned it down. Once it was roughed smooth I turned up  the speed and finished turned. I added lead shot and came up with 3lbs 4 oz which was too heavy for me and the handle was just over too large dia wise so I took out about a lb of shot and returned the handle to 1 1/2'' ish, and put a bump in the middle where it is comfortable to use with the bit only showing about 5 inches or so ( doing shallow work) .Initally i just rubed on tung oil on the lathe, burnished it with a shop rag and let it dry, on the return I think I will just leave the finish off and see what develops from use.