Bit costs about 7$ .... should last, oh .. 5 years. Screw was .45 cents, 1/2 '' shank of mild steel 12 inches long , cold rolled and  ground was 3$.Hole is 10-32 thread , drill # 21 hole and tap was 5.95$ at true valu store in Sandpoint.There are a gazillon carbide bits out there with all kinds of shapes , they have to be ground to very sharp as this is primarily cast from powder technology  and is sharp enuf for metals and will cut wood in factory trim but you have to lean on it ..... hard.Good green carbide wheel  6 in dia is about 32$ for 1 in wide and 23$ for 3/4 in wide. You have to make a holder for it as it gets hot and is only 1/2'' wide at the flat side.On mine I did two things I ground the flat sides flat and one of the points i reradiused it 1/8 inch. The birch pot I did end grain  totaly with this carbide bit on the 1/2'' shank,  except for the recess.I use the foward point to cut from the center out and the left side point for the sides and the flats side to smooth with , on inside curve this is tricky but on the out side of the pot oh baby is that smooth and any marks left sand up very quick.I had very little tear out and it sanded up faster than usual.

All I can say is it was a lot smoother ,way less chatter . Oh I did bore the center hole with my Henery T 1/2'' spindle gouge to start and all the way thru to the bottom to give the carbide room to bite.But you can plunge in any where except the center as it just rubs.The bit has to be held at about 30 deg angle in the direction you are cutting. I may get a short vid of the next one I do as is way easier to see in action than try to describe it.I could cut about an 1/8 '' deep on each pass easy , the bit has what is called a chip breaker groove so you do not get and longggg shavings they break off at about 3/16ths inch long, and with the pipe handle when the bit really is biting good and you feel the torque the comp fitting lets go and it just turns down some , no catch, no jerking out of you hand etc. and no screaming steel. and no changing the laundry ....this bit will take a big bite , and it would be most excellent on a captured system where the tourque load is transfered to the hoop handle instead of your hand. Soon as I get a stainless fitting to replace my brass then I could really tighten up the ferrule nut and it should not slip at all , and try this again to see how much pressure I can put on it , I should beable to get at least a 1/4 deep x 1/4 wide cut with out any problem.I did notice that it like to be pulled from center to edge and from the bottom out, instead of working in on hfs it like to work out getting behind the grain was not a problem as the edge is curved down unlike the scraper hollowing tools out there , hard to describe it is just different but one could pick it up quick I think, and it is still as sharp as it was befor I started. The only diff was the TiN coating is worn off somewhat.( the gold stuff).I started out with speed at 500 and went up to 1250 then 1700 and I like the higher speed with this bit.

I am going to mount the bit on my 5/8 shaft and do a bowl some time soon , I know my bg makes short work of the inside  but I will use for finish work and get some idea about using it with the grain vs cross grain.