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= Disc Brake Conversion = |
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As my quest for parts continued, I found that the remaining parts were relatively easy to get. I obstained bearings and seals from Autozone. I decided to go with Timken bearings. I have never had one fail on me in any of my automotive or commercial equipment repairs... unless some boob didn't lube them properly! I purchased some Russel stainless steel braided brake lines. They give the user a better pedal, and look good too. NPD supplied me with a caliper alignment kit in exchange for about $40 of my hard earned jack. Now here comes some of my own trick stuff. The spindles and calipers came with locating pins, but they were badly pitted and rusty. I thought long and hard, and I decided to buy a set of stainless steel pins. What's that you say? Nobody MAKES stainless steel caliper pins? Well, I guess I am just gonna have a set made! I obtained 4 stainless steel allen head bolts, and took them to a local tool and die guy. He cut them down for the low low price of $50. See them in this picture here:
I tried to get a set of Russel Speed Bleeders, but the darn things were not long enough, so I went back with the conventional type. I also took the time to purchase stainless steel hardware so that I would not have rusty bolts. I plan to drive this car, but I also want it to look good without having to put it on the lift and wipe it down after every drive. Stainless stuff wont rust, and should stay pretty for a LOOONG time. I got some anti-seize compound to coat the threads so the bolts dont seize into the steel. I was able to use some of the small parts from the drum set-up, like the bearing retainer and nut. I also purchased my own internal spring compressor. I had to get some galvenized pipe to space it up because the bolt portion is way too long, but it worked well after my alterations!. Here it is in action:
I also purchased a 1974 Maverick non-power disk/drum master cylinder. This is a direct bolt-in and allows me to basically bolt-up my current brake lines and go, with the exception of the proportioning valve that goes in the line to the rear brakes. I bought the valve from Summit Racing. I also bought a small segment of brake line to go from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. From there, I will tie the existing rear brake line into the other side of the proportioning valve. I will have to get a new set of hard lines for the front as I snapped one trying to disassemble (see picture above). I am gonna get stainless steel.
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